Summer Retro Crochet Tote Bag Pattern

I used an easy hexagon pattern and added a little visual interest by adding a pop of color to each motif. I think this is a great way to use up yarn and also ensure the bag matches with whichever outfit you have on for the day. There are other little details to this bag as well which set it apart from others, including the buttons on the sides of the strap and the vibrant lining across the opening.

This crochet bag can carry more than you’d think, while remaining smartly on your shoulder. Whether you end up using it to hold your art supplies or fresh produce, it’ll securely carry anything.

Related: If you love working up bags from unique motifs, add the Motif Market Tote to your to-crochet list.

How to Crochet a Motif Tote Bag

The construction of this crochet tote bag pattern takes a couple of steps but there’s nothing confusing about it. You’ll start by crocheting all of the hexagon motifs in the colors of your choice and then laying them out and seaming them according to the blueprint shared in the instructions.

Once that’s done, you’ll add the solid top and bottom to give it that neat finishing and then crochet the strap. You can mix in all of the detailing I have for my bag, including a different colored edging around the mouth of the bag and large buttons at the sides of the strap. That’s completely up to you!

Best Yarn for Crochet Bags

I typically recommend using 100% cotton yarn for a crochet bag for several reasons:

• Cotton yarns are soft and durable.
• Cotton yarns don’t pill easily.
• They hold up well to several washes in a washing machine.
• They show crochet stitch definition really well.
• They keep their shape.
• They don’t snag easily.
• They’re fairly inexpensive.

My second favorite yarn to crochet a bag with is 100% worsted weight wool, but keep in mind that animal fibers have a tendency to felt. And my third choice is double stranded acrylic yarn with a smaller hook than what’s recommended on the yarn label (because acrylic is stretchier).

If you’re going to line a crochet tote bag with fabric, you can use any yarn you’d like because the fabric will bear the weight of the items you place in the bag.

Related: If you want to keep your sunglasses from getting scratched up when you store them in your bag, you can make yourself a matching Hexagon Eyeglass Case.

Yarn

Since I love to use cotton for crochet bags, for the Summer Retro Crochet Tote Bag Pattern, I chose Lily Sugar ‘n Cream which is 100% cotton.

For the beige colored bag shown in the photos, I chose the shade Ecru as the main color. This collection is known for both its sheen and structure which remain no matter how much you wash and wear out your project. Since it’s machine washable, your handmade tote bag can easily get a lot of use before you clean it.

The weight of this yarn give it a firmness and density that help the bag hold its shape better compared to lighter yarns.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch(s): chain(s)
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• sp(s): space(s)
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• dc3tog: double crochet decrease by 2
• 2 dc-cl: 2 double crochet cluster
• alt-dc: alternate chainless double crochet
• standing sc: standing single crochet
• standing dc: standing double crochet
• RS/WS: right side / wrong side
• Rep: repeat
• Rnd(s): round(s)
• yo: yarn over
• MC: main color
• CC: contrasting color

Experience Level

• Easy / Intermediate

Gauge

• See each specific section. Dimensions are given as you work.

Special Stitches

• 2 Double Crochet Cluster (2 dc-cl): Yo, insert hook where indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops, yo, insert hook in same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops, yo, pull thru remaining loops.
• Double Crochet 3 Together (dc3tog): (Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops) 3 times, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook.
• Alternate Double Crochet (alt-dc): Do not ch, instead, insert your hook into the first st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru both loops, insert your hook between the legs of the st just made, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru one loop, yo, pull thru remaining loops.

Pattern Notes

• Beginning chain(s) are not included in stitch count, unless noted otherwise.
• First stitch of each row is worked in the same stitch as the turning chain, unless otherwise specified.
• I tend to crochet on the tighter side. You may need to go down a hook size (or two) to meet gauge if you crochet on the looser side.
• Yarn Notes: Lily Sugar n’ Cream Yarn (2.5 oz / 71 g / 120 yds / 109 m / 100% cotton) was used for the sample shown in the photos. Other comparable yarns may be used as long as gauge is met.
• Yardage & Color:
  • Main Color: Ecru (3 Balls / 440 yards)
  • Contrasting Colors 1 – 6: Seabreeze, Hot Green, Robin’s Egg, Hot Pink, Yellow & Tea Rose (1 Ball / 60 yards each)
• Construction Notes: This bag is constructed by making and seaming (18) 4.5″ hexagons. After the hexagons are seamed, a top edge and bottom is added to create the bag. A strap is added last.

Summer Retro Crochet Tote Bag – Written Pattern

4.25″ – Hexagon Instructions  (Make 18)

Color Scheme: If you’re planning to follow the same color scheme as shown in my bag, you’ll need to make 3 hexagons using each of the 6 different contrasting colors.

Note: Most of this hexagon is worked in a spiral (continuous rounds). There are a few rounds that are joined at the end of them. Pay close attention to the instructions. See progression photos below.

Tip: I highly suggest using locking stitch markers where noted. They will help to keep you on track while you crochet and they come in very handy when seaming the hexagons together.

Rnd 1 (RS / MC): With a 5.00mm crochet hook & MC yarn, ch 2, work 6 sc into the 2nd ch from your hook. Do not join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2 (MC): Alt-dc in the first st, work 1 more dc in the first st, work 2 dc in each remaining st around. Join with a sl st to the alt-dc. Fasten off MC. (12 sts)

Rnd 3 (CC): With a 5.50mm crochet hook & CC yarn, join yarn with a standing dc in the space between the first 2 sts of round 2, work 1 more dc in the same space, work 2 dc in the space between each 2 dc’s around. Join with a sl st to the standing dc. Fasten off CC. (24 sts)

Rnd 4 (MC): With a 5.50mm crochet hook & MC yarn, skip the first 2 dc, join yarn with a standing dc in the space after the skipped dc’s, work 2 more dc in the same space, skip each of the next 2 dc, work (2 dc-cl, ch 2, 2 dc-cl) in the space after the skipped dc’s, * skip each of the next 2 dc, work 3 dc in the space after the skipped dc’s, skip each of the next 2 dc, work (2 dc-cl, ch 2, 2d c-cl) in the space after the skipped dc’s, rep from * around. Do not join. (30 sts + 6 ch-2 sps)

Tip: In rounds 5 & 6, you may find it helpful to place a locking stich marker in the 2nd sc of each 3 sc worked into the corners of the hexagon.

Rnd 5 (MC): Sc in each of the next 4 sts, 3 sc in the next ch-2 sp, * sc in each of the next 5 sts, 3 sc in the next ch-2 sp, rep from * around to the last st, sc in the last st. Do not join.  (48 sts)

Rnd 6 (MC): Sc in each of the next 5 sts, 3 sc in the next st, * sc in each of the next 7 sts, 3 sc in the next st, rep from * around to the last 2 sts, sc in each of the last 2 sts. Do not join. (60 sts) Make sure you’ve placed stitch markers in the 2nd sc of each 3 sc group, in each corner of the hexagon. Approximate size at this point is 4.5″ from flat edge to flat edge.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Layout & Seaming.

Progression Photos – Hexagon Motifs

Layout & Seaming Hexagons

Step 1: Use the layout shown in the photo below to arrange your hexagons with the right sides facing up.

Step 2: Use locking stitch markers or scrap pieces of yarn to hold the hexagons together while you seam. Make sure to place the stitch markers in the middle single crochet at each corner to keep your pieces lined up.

Step 3: Use a 5.00mm crochet hook and a Flat Slip Stitch Seam to seam your hexagons together. Create 3 strips of 6 hexagons, working all vertical seams between the hexagons first. Then work 2 longer zig zag seams to join the 3 strips of 6 hexagons.

Weave in all ends. Continue on to Folding & Seaming.

Folding & Seaming

Step 1: Flip the seamed hexagons over so that the right sides are facing down.

Step 2: Fold the seamed hexagons inward until they fit together like pieces in a puzzle and form a tube. See photo below.

Step 3: Seam the last zig zag section to form a tube. Work the last zig zag seam from the pink arrow to the green arrow.

Weave in ends. Continue on to Top Edging.

Top Edging

Rnd 1 (MC): With a 5.00 mm crochet hook and MC, join yarn with a standing sc in any middle sc from any of the hexagons’ points around the top edge, sc in the next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 5 sts, dc3tog, dc in each of the next 5 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, * sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 5 sts, dc3tog, dc in each of the next 5 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, work from * 5 times. Do not join. (108 sts)

Rnd 2: * sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 4 sts, dc3tog, dc in each of the next 4 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, repeat from * around. Do not join.  (96 sts)

Rnd 3: * sc in each of the next 4 sts, hdc in each of the next 9 sts, sc in each of the next 3 sts, rep from * around. Do not join. (96 sts)

Rnd 4 (CC): Sl st in each st around. Join using special join technique. (96 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Bottom Edging.

Bottom Edging

Rnd 1 (MC): With a 5.00 mm crochet hook and MC, join yarn with a standing sc in any middle sc from any of the hexagons’ points around the bottom edge, sc in the next st, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 5 sts, dc3tog, dc in each of the next 5 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, * sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 5 sts, dc3tog, dc in each of the next 5 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, work from * 5 times. Do not join. (108 sts)

Rnd 2: * sc in each of the next 2 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in each of the next 4 sts, dc3tog, dc in each of the next 4 sts, hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in the next st, repeat from * around. Do not join.  (96 sts)

Rnd 3: * sc in each of the next 4 sts, hdc in each of the next 9 sts, sc in each of the next 3 sts, rep from * around. Do not join. (96 sts)

Rnds 4 – 10: Sc in each st around.  (96 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Seaming the Bottom of the Bag.

Seaming the Bottom of the Bag

The bag in the photos is not the Summer Retro Tote Bag, but the seaming technique is the same.

Step 1: Turn the bag inside out, lay it flat in front of you.

Step 2: Using a yarn needle and length of yarn approximately 3 times the width of the bag, whipstitch the bottom of the bag closed making sure to work into every stitch. Weave in ends.

Step 3: Keep your bag inside out and position it so that one corner of the seam becomes the tip of the triangle. Note that the seam is centered vertically in the triangle.

Step 4: Use a measuring tape and find the points on the triangle where it measures 3.5″ across. Mark both the right and left side with a stitch marker.

Step 5: Use a yarn needle and 12″ piece of yarn and sew from one stitch marker to the next, working through both layers of the bag.

Step 6: Turn your bag right side out. The photo below, center shows what the inside of your bag will look like. The photo below, right shows what the bottom of your bag will look like.

Weave in ends. Continue on to the Strap.

Strap

Row 1: Using a 5.00 mm crochet hook & MC, ch 6, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook, sc in each ch across. Turn.  (5 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn.

Rep Row 2 until strap measures 26″, or desired length.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Edging.

Edging

Rnd 1: Continuing on from the strap, work 1 sc into the side of each row and st around, but work 1 extra st at each corner. Stitch count isn’t crucial.

Do not join. Continue on to Slip Stitch Edging.

Slip Stitch Edging

Note: Adding the slip stitch edging will help keep your strap from stretching out.

Rnd 1: Continuing on from the Edging, slip stitch in each st around the perimeter of the strap. Adjust your hook size as needed to keep the tension even. Stitch count isn’t crucial. Use Special Join Technique.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on Attaching the Strap. Finished size of the strap is approximately 2″ W x 26″ L.

Attaching the Strap

• Sew 2″ from one end of the strap to each short side of the upper portion of the bag.
• Add a large 1.5″ button on top of each end of the strap, if desired.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.