While designing the Diagonal Ripple Lapghan, I kept thinking of all of the different projects I could use this on-the-bias crochet stitch pattern for. A scarf was one of them and this was how the Diagonal Ripple Scarf crochet pattern came to be. Many love working the classic crochet ripple pattern in BLO to create a neat ridge effect so I gave it a whirl when working on the bias. If you love to work crochet blankets from corner-to-corner (also known as working on-the-bias), you love crochet chevrons, and you love a good 1 skein project, then you will really enjoy this crochet scarf pattern! If you are intimidated by chevrons and working C2C, no worries because I’ve included several photos to help you along the way.

You can find the free crochet C2C pattern for the Diagonal Ripple Scarf in this post below, or an ad-free print friendly version on Love Crafts here, Ravelry here, or on Etsy here.

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Shortly after I taught myself to crochet, I fell in love with crochet chevrons (or crochet ripples as some prefer to refer to them as). Chevrons/Ripples are created using a classic crochet stitch pattern, but even though they’ve been around for decades, this stitch pattern can also be very modern. I love how simply playing around with color placement or working in back loops only, can really individualize a chevron pattern.

YARN

For this crochet C2C scarf, I chose Red Heart Super Saver Ombre in True Blue. I love ombre yarns and I knew there would be plenty of yardage in just 1 skein, making this a 1 skein project! Red Heart Super Saver Ombre is a great worsted weight acrylic yarn that’s available in 23 colors! You’ll have a hard time choosing colors, but this crochet ripple scarf will look great in any and every color.

The Diagonal Ripple Scarf free crochet pattern is my contribution to the 6th annual Scarf of the Month Club CAL with Rhondda from Oombawka Design and Amy from The Stitchin’ Mommy.

If you would like to know more about this CAL, including the schedule please visit the links above (or click the picture below).

SEPTEMBER PATTERNS FROM THE SCARF OF THE MONTH CLUB 2021:

Diagonal Ripple Scarf (in this post below)

2021 Easy Does it Textured Scarf – Oombawka Design

Oh So Denim Cowl – The Stitching Mommy

DIAGONAL RIPPLE SCARF – FREE CROCHET C2C PATTERN

The free pattern is below, but if you love to work offline, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF, including all photo tutorials, on Love Crafts here, Ravelry here, or on Etsy here.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites here.

Pin it for later here.

This post contains affiliate links.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted Weight / 4 yarn, 440 yards, Red Heart Super Saver Ombre, was used for the crochet scarf shown in the photos. (482 yards / 283 g / 10 oz / 440 m / 100% Acrylic)
- True Blue: 1 skein
Crochet Hook: J/10/6.00mm (My favorite crochet hooks are the Clover Amour Hooks, I’ve never had an ache in my hand since switching)
Scissors
Yarn Needle
Locking stitch marker

Many of these materials are available for purchase through our affiliates below:

RED HEART E305.3962 Super S...Shop on Amazon Clover Amour Crochet Hook: ...Shop on Amazon Fiskars 154110-1001 Non-sti...Shop on Amazon Lion Brand Yarn 400-5-5002 ...Shop on Amazon Clover Lock Ring Markers, 2...Shop on Amazon

Gauge

In BLO sc: 10 sts = 3″ + 10 rows = 3″

Difficulty Level

Advanced Beginner / Intermediate

Finished Size

6.5″ W x 80″ L *see notes below to easily adjust length

Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch(s): chain(s)
st(s): stitch(es)
sl st(s): slip stitch(es)
sc: single crochet
sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
yo: yarn over
sp(s): space(s)
rep: repeat
RS: right side
BLO: back loop only
FLO: front loop only
SM: stitch marker
Join with a standing sc: (click here for tutorial)

Notes

The first stitch of each row is worked in the same stitch as the turning chain, unless stated otherwise.
Turning chains are not included in stitch count, unless noted otherwise.
Red Heart Super Saver Ombre in True Blue, worsted weight yarn, was used for the sample shown in the photos. 100% Acrylic, (482 yards / 283 g / 10 oz / 440 m)
Yardage: approximately 440 yards
This scarf is worked on the bias (corner-to-corner) beginning in the lower left corner and finishing in the upper right corner. A simple single crochet border is then added.
Adjusting Length: To make your scarf shorter, work fewer repeats of Rows 10 – 21. To make your scarf longer, work more repeats of Rows 10 – 21.

Diagonal Ripple Scarf Instructions

This scarf is worked corner-to-corner (on the bias) beginning in the lower left corner, then a simple single crochet border is added.

Tip: You may find it helpful to place a SM in the FLO of each ch-1 space and sc2tog to make it easier to find them when working the next row.

Note: Beginning with Row 2, you will work all stitches in the back loop only.

Row 1: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, ch 26, working into the back hump of the ch, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the 2nd ch from your hook, sc in each of the next 10 chs, work a sc2tog in the 1st & 3rd of the next 3 chs (skipping the 2nd ch), sc in each of the next 10 chs, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the last ch. Turn. (25 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

sc2tog in the 1st & 3rd of the next 3 chs (skipping the 2nd ch)

Shows Row 1 complete. Tip: Place a SM in the first and last sc of each row to help make it easier to locate them in the following row.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in the last st. Turn. (27 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

sc2tog in BLO of the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row)

Row 3: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in the next st, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the last 2 sts. Turn. (29 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

Row 4: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each st to the next ch-1, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each remaining st. Turn. (31 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

Rows 5 – 9: Rep Row 4. Fasten off at the end of Row 9. Stitch count at the end of Row 9 (41 sts + 2 ch-1’s). Place a SM in the FLO of the last ch-1 of row 9.

Shows Row 1 – 9 Complete. Note the stitch marker to mark where you will begin the next row.

Beginning with Row 10, only one edge of your scarf will increase. This is where your work starts to become a rectangle.

Row 10: Working in BLO, join yarn with a standing sc in the st you marked with a SM in the previous row, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 9 sts. Turn. (33 sts + 1 ch-1)

Row 11: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 9 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts. Turn. (33 sts + 1 ch-1)

Row 12: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 11 sts, ch 13. T urn. (33 sts + 1 ch-1 + ch 12 + ch 13) *Stitch count increases by 2 sts + 1 ch 13.

The photo above shows Row 12 complete. It shows how you will begin working decreases on one side and increases on the opposite side.

Row 13: Working in BLO, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the 2nd ch from your hook, sc in each of the next 10 chs, work a sc2tog in the next ch & 2nd sc (skipping the 1st sc), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 8 sts. Turn. (44 sts + 2 ch-1’s) *Stitch count increases by 11 sts + 1 ch-1.

Row 14: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in the next st. Turn. (44 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

Row 15: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in the next st, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping the sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 6 sts. Turn. (44 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

Row 16: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 3 sts. Turn. (44 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

Row 17: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping the sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 4 sts. Turn. (44 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

Row 18: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (44 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

Row 19: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 5 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping the sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 2 sts. Turn. (44 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

Row 20: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 7 sts. Turn. (44 sts + 2 ch-1’s)

Row 21: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 7 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping the sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the next ch, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row). Turn. (44 sts + 2 ch-1’s) Place a SM in the FLO of the last ch-1 of the row. Fasten off.

The photo above shows Rows 1 – 21 complete. The white section shows one complete repeat section, Rows 10 -21. Note the stitch marker to mark where you will begin the next row.

Rows 22 – 117: Rep Rows 10 – 21 (8 times total).

Beginning with Row 118, both edges of your scarf will be decreasing towards the corner opposite the one where you started.

Row 118: Working in BLO, join yarn with a standing sc in the st you marked with a SM in the previous row, sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 11 sts. Turn. (23 sts)

The photo above shows Row 118 complete. This last section decreases on both ends of the row and fills in the final corner of the scarf.

Row 119: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 10 sts. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 120: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 9 sts. Turn. (19 sts)

Row 121: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 8 sts. Turn. (17 sts)

Row 122: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 7 sts. Turn. (15 sts)

Row 123: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 6 sts. Turn. (13 sts)

Row 124: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (11 sts)

Row 125: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 4 sts. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 126: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 3 sts. Turn. (7 sts)

Row 127: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc in the next st, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in each of the next 2 sts. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 128: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc in the first st, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row), sc in the next st. Turn. (3 sts)

Row 129: Ch 1, working in BLO, sc2tog in the next 2 sc (skipping sc2tog from previous row). Turn. (1 st)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Border.

The photo above shows Rows 118 – 129 complete.

Border

Stitch Count: The stitch count for the border is not crucial.

Round 1: Ch 1, working across the first short side of the scarf, 2 sc in the first st (place a SM in the first st), work 1 sc in each st across the first side to the corner st, * work 3 sc in the corner st, work 1 sc in each st across the next side to the corner st, * work from * to * 3 times, work 1 more sc into the beginning corner. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. Stitch count is not crucial.

Fasten off. Use Invisible Join Technique (click HERE for tutorial). Weave in ends & block, if desired.

Give your work a professional finish by blocking it! Click here to learn 3 different ways to block acrylic yarn. I prefer to steam block, which technique will you choose?

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