Aurora Crochet Cardigan Womens Pattern

ByJennifer Renaud Updated:

Sometimes, we don’t want a fancy cardigan when we’re going about our day and completing our to-do lists. We just want a simple piece, with a nice fit, pockets, and a classic look to it – everything this crochet cardigan womens pattern offers.

Since the sleeves are particular to size, you have to ensure you have the right measurements when going through this pattern. If this is the first cardigan you’re crocheting, be sure to go through everything carefully, especially the construction so that the final product is exactly as you envisioned it.

You’ll find the free crochet cardigan womens pattern in the post below, or you can find an ad-free printable PDF (that includes all photo tutorials + schematic), on Ravelry, or Etsy (aff).

Woman modeling a gold crochet cardigan womens pattern in the mountains.
The gorgeous mustard color I used for my crochet cardigan makes it a vibrant addition to any outfit!

Crocheting a comfortable sweater like this one is a very rewarding project because not only do you get a cozy, custom-fit piece that matches your style, but you also make something meaningful with your own hands. The choice is up to you whether you keep it for yourself or give it to a loved one as a handmade present full of affection and care.

The Aurora Cardigan acts as the perfect companion for a breezy evening walk, a relaxed picnic with friends, or a quiet morning spent outdoors with a warm drink. The crocheting process itself is soothing because the pattern has all you need to know for a stress-free journey.

Related: If you want to make another cardigan with lots of warmth packed in it, you should check out the Cozy Cabled Crochet Cardigan.

How to Crochet a Cardigan

This crochet cardigan sweater pattern has an easy construction that you’ll be able to grasp in your first go! You’ll start from the bottom hem and work up to the shoulders to create the main body.

To do so, first, you’ll crochet the body until you reach the bottom of the armholes. There, you’ll split into three panels and crochet the upper right panel, back panel, and upper left panel.

You’ll then seam the shoulders, bringing all of the panels together. Next, you’ll crochet the sleeves right onto the armhole openings. That makes the entirety of the cardigan, minus the edging.

Try it on to make sure it fits perfectly! As a finishing touch, you’ll add the bottom hem and collar. Lastly, crochet the pockets and sew them onto the cardigan (you can skip this step if you don’t want pockets).

Woman standing with her hands in the pockets of a gold crochet cardigan.

How To Get The

Aurora Crochet Cardigan Womens Pattern

Option 1: Scroll down for the free sweater crochet pattern right here in this blog post.

Option 2: Purchase the ad-free printable PDF from one of my shops:

Ravelry
Etsy

Best Yarn for Crochet Sweaters

For this crochet cardigan womens pattern, while there are many options to choose from, I used an acrylic and alpaca blend yarn. The alpaca content gives it extra warmth and makes it the ideal garment for cold winters. Because of the acrylic, it holds its shape well and has good stitch definition, which is especially great for patterns that have structure such as this one.

This yarn is available in thirteen gorgeous solid colors. Although it is classified as a worsted weight yarn, I’ve found that it is on the lighter side of most worsted weight yarns. Keep this in mind if you plan to substitute with your favorite worsted weight yarn.

Choosing Which Size to Crochet

To choose your size, look over the size chart below.

  • ‘Fits Chest’ measurement is the measurement of the intended wearer, not the garment’s finished measurement.
  • Finished Chest, Sleeve Length, Armhole Depth, and Cardigan Length are measurements of the finished garment.
  • Cardigan Length is measured from the nape of the neck down and includes the bottom ribbing.
  • Sleeve Length is measured from the underarm of the cardigan to edge of the cuff.
  • This cardigan has 6 – 8″ of positive ease built in for a classic fit.
  • If you prefer more of an oversized cardigan, I would suggest making one size larger than your chest size.
  • Adjusting Cardigan Length: If you need to adjust sweater length, there are instructions with how to do so in the Body of Cardigan section.
  • Adjusting Sleeve Length: If you need to adjust sleeve length, there are instructions with how to do so in the Sleeve section.

Size & Yardage Chart

The notes above refer to this size chart.

Aurora Crochet Cardigan Womens Pattern Size Chart.

Yarn

This women’s crochet sweater was designed with a light worsted weight yarn to make sure it would have a beautiful drape to it while also being warm enough for colder winter days. I chose not to use a bulky yarn for fear it would then be too thick to be worn in the transitioning months of autumn and spring (we want to get the most wear out of this everyday piece).

I chose Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca for my crochet cardigan. This is a worsted weight / 4, acrylic and alpaca blend yarn and it’s currently available in beautiful solid colors. This yarn offers a smooth even texture in a contemporary color palette with plenty of neutral tones.

Woman modeling a gold crochet cardigan with pockets in snowy mountain.
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Aurora Crochet Cardigan – Free Pattern

The crochet women’s cardigan pattern is free below, but if you love to work offline, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF, (that includes all photo tutorials, + a garment schematic), on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Pin it & Save it for later.

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel!

This post contains affiliate links.

Materials

Abbreviations (US Terms)

Experience Level

  • Easy

Gauge

  • Body of Cardigan stitch pattern: 15 sts = 4.5″ + 10 rows = 4″
  • Gauge Swatch Instructions are below.

Sizes

Special Stitches

  • Double Crochet Decrease (dc2tog): (Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 2 loops on hook) twice, yo, pull thru remaining 3 loops on hook.
  • Alternate Double Crochet (Alt-dc): After turning your work, do not ch, instead, insert your hook into the first st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru both loops, insert your hook between the legs of the st just made, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru one loop, yo, pull thru remaining loops. .
  • Alternate Double Crochet Decrease (Alt-dc2tog): After turning your work, do not ch, instead, insert your hook into the first st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru both loops, insert your hook between the legs of the st just made, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru one loop, yo, insert your hook into the next st indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through remaining 3 loops.
  • Single Crochet Spike Stitch: Begin the spike stitch by inserting your hook into the stitch 1 row down from the current row, yo, pull up a long loop (make sure to pull the loop up to the top edge of your work), yo, pull through all loops on your hook. .
  • Join yarn with a standing single crochet: Begin with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the stitch or space indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo and draw thru both loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

  • I tend to crochet on the tighter side. You may need to go down a hook size (or two) to meet gauge if you crochet on the looser side.
  • Turning chains are not included in stitch count.
  • Chains (for chain spaces) are included in stitch count.
  • Yarn Notes: Lion Brand Touch of Alpaca [90% acrylic / 10% alpaca (207 yds / 190 m / 100 g / 3.5 oz)] was used for the sample in the photos. Yarns similar in fiber content and weight can be substituted as long as gauge is met.
  • Color & Yardage
    • Goldenrod: #674-158R
    • See Size & Yardage Chart above.
  • Changes for Sizes as Follows: S (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
  • Construction Notes: This cardigan is worked from the bottom up then split for front and back panels. After the panels are worked, the shoulders are seamed, then sleeves are added. Finish it off with a bottom hem and collar. Add the optional pockets, if desired.
  • This design is best worked in a solid color or a solid color with an accent color for the pockets and collar. It isn’t gradient/cake yarn friendly unless you have several cakes from which you can work from.
  • Once done, you can block if desired.

Aurora Crochet Cardigan Sweater – Written Pattern

Gauge Swatch

Note: If you’re struggling to meet gauge, focus on meeting gauge width as you can easily adjust the height of your panels & length of your sleeves by working more rows/rounds.

Gauge: 15 sts = 4.5″; 10 rows = 4″

Row 1 (RS): Using a 6.50mm crochet hook, ch 16, switch to a 6.00mm crochet hook, working in the back hump of the foundation ch, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook, (ch 1, skip the next ch, sc in the next ch) 7 times. Turn.  (15 sts)

Row 2: Alt-dc, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) 7 times. Turn.

Rows 4 – 10: Rep Rows 2 – 3, ending w/ a row 2 repeat.

Fasten off. Swatch should measure: 4.5″ W x 4″ H.

Body of Cardigan

Set-Up: Using a 6.5mm crochet hook, ch 124 (138, 150, 164, 178, 192, 204, 218).

Row 1 (RS): Switch to a 6.00mm crochet hook, working into the back hump of the foundation chain, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn.  (123, 137, 149, 163, 177, 191, 203, 217 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) rep from ( to ) across. Turn.

Row 3: Alt-dc in the first st, dc in each sc and ch-1 sp across. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 – 3 (ending with a Row 3), until cardigan measures  23″ (23″, 23″, 22.5″, 22.5″, 21.5″, 21.5″, 21.5″).

Adjusting Length: If you prefer a longer or short cardigan, here is where you’ll want to adjust. The length stated above is the cardigan’s length from the bottom of the armhole to the bottom hem. If at all possible, check length, at this point, on the intended wearer.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Front Left Panel.

Front Left Panel

Before you fasten off your panel, please make sure to read “Check Fit” below. This will help you easily customize your cardigan to your body shape and fit preference.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) 13 (14, 16, 18, 20, 21, 23, 25. Turn. (27, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47, 51 sts)

Stitch Marker Placement: Before you “turn” to begin Row 2, place a stitch marker in the next stitch to mark the beginning of the Back Panel.

Row 2: Alt-dc in the first st, dc in each sc and ch-1 sp across. Turn.

Size S: Rows 3 – 17: Repeat Rows 1 – 2, ending with a Row 1 repeat.

Size M: Rows 3 – 18: Repeat Rows 1 – 2.

Size L: Rows 3 – 19: Repeat Rows 1 – 2, ending with a Row 1 repeat.

Size XL: Rows 3 – 20: Repeat Rows 1 – 2.

Size 2X: Rows 3 – 21: Repeat Rows 1 – 2, ending with a Row 1 repeat.

Size 3X: Rows 3 – 23: Repeat Rows 1 – 2, ending with a Row 1 repeat.

Size 4X: Rows 3 – 24: Repeat Rows 1 – 2.

Size 5X: Rows 3 – 25: Repeat Rows 1 – 2, ending with a Row 1 repeat.

Fasten off. Continue on to Back Panel. Panel Height: 6.75″ (7″, 7.5″, 8″, 8.5″, 9.25″, 9.5″, 10″).

Check Fit: 

This isn’t mandatory, but if you’d like to make sure your cardigan fits you as best as possible, do the following:

Step 1: Work all 3 panels, Front Left Panel, Back Panel & Front Right Panel, but do not fasten off. Use stitch markers to hold the yarn.

Step 2: Use scraps of yarn to temporarily attach the front panels to the back panel (just as if you were going to seam the shoulders).

Step 3: Try your cardigan on and check the depth of the armhole / width of the sleeve opening.

Step 4 Sizes S – 3X:

  • Perfect Fit: If your armhole depth fits perfectly, fasten off all panels and continue on to Shoulder Seams.
  • Too Snug: If you’d prefer larger armholes, work the number of rows specified for the cardigan that’s 1 or 2 sizes up from the size you’re making. For example, if I were making a size small and wanted a larger armhole, I’d follow the size M or L instructions for the panels and work Rows 3 – 18 or Rows 3 – 19. I would then follow the sleeves for that size as well, but possibly add a couple more decreases in the sleeve near the wrist when I got to that point. 

Step 4 Sizes 4X & 5X:

  • Too Snug: If you’d prefer larger armholes, increase the number of rows in each panel by multiples of 2. Begin by adding 2 more rows to each panel and re-check fit. Once you’ve achieved your preferred fit, continue on to Shoulder Seams.
  • Adjusting the Sleeves: If you’ve added rows to your panels, this will increase the circumference of your sleeves as well. For every 2 additional rows that you add to your panels, your stitch count for Rnd 1 of the sleeves will increase by 6 stitches. Example: If you add 2 rows to a size 4X, then the stitch count for Rnd 1 of your sleeves will be 79 sts. Follow the remaining instructions for the sleeves (your stitch count will be a little off). As you’re working your sleeve add a couple more decreases as desired until your sleeve fits the way you want it to fit. Stitch count is not crucial.

Back Panel

Row 1 (WS): Join yarn with a standing sc in the st you marked with a stitch marker, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) 34 (39, 41, 44, 47, 52, 54, 57) times. Turn. (69, 79, 83, 89, 95, 105, 109, 115 sts)

Stitch Marker Placement: Before you “turn” to begin Row 2, place a stitch marker in the next stitch to mark the beginning of the Front Right Panel.

Row 2: Alt-dc in the first st, dc in each sc and ch-1 sp across. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) rep from ( to ) across. Turn.

Size S: Rows 4 – 17: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Size M: Rows 4 – 18: Repeat Rows 2 – 3, ending with a Row 2 repeat.

Size L: Rows 4 – 19: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Size XL: Rows 4 – 20: Repeat Rows 2 – 3, ending with a Row 2 repeat.

Size 2X: Rows 4 – 21: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Size 3X: Rows 4 – 23: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Size 4X: Rows 4 – 24: Repeat Rows 2 – 3, ending with a Row 2 repeat.

Size 5X: 4 – 25: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Fasten off. Continue on to Front Right Panel. Panel Height: 6.75″ (7″, 7.5″, 8″, 8.5″, 9.25″, 9.5″, 10″).

Front Right Panel

Row 1 (WS): Join yarn with a standing sc in the st you marked with a stitch marker, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) 13 (14, 16, 18, 20, 21, 23, 25). Turn. (27, 29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47, 51 sts)

Row 2: Alt-dc in the first st, dc in each sc and ch-1 sp across. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) rep from ( to ) across. Turn.

Size S: Rows 4 – 17: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Size M: Rows 4 – 18: Repeat Rows 2 – 3, ending with a Row 2 repeat.

Size L: Rows 4 – 19: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Size XL: Rows 4 – 20: Repeat Rows 2 – 3, ending with a Row 2 repeat.

Size 2X: Rows 4 – 21: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Size 3X: Rows 4 – 23: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Size 4X: Rows 4 – 24: Repeat Rows 2 – 3, ending with a Row 2 repeat.

Size 5X: Rows 4 – 25: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Fasten off. Continue on to Shoulder Seams. Panel Height: 6.75″ (7″, 7.5″, 8″, 8.5″, 9.25″, 9.5″, 10″).

Shoulder Seams

Step 1: Fold the two front panels in towards the center of the cardigan, folding where it splits for the sleeves. Line up the corners of the front panels with the corners of the back panel. Match up the stitches on the front panel with corresponding stitches along the back panel. Use stitch markers to hold the panels in place during seaming. You should have lined up 27 (29, 33, 37, 41, 43, 47, 51) sts for both the front left & right panels. You should have 15 (21, 17, 15, 13, 19, 15, 13) stitches remaining along the neck opening.

Step 2: With the right side facing out, use a yarn needle and 12″ piece of yarn to whipstitch a front panel to the back panel. Repeat for second front panel.

Weave in ends. Continue on to Sleeves.

Photos: The photos below show the girls cardigan. I forgot to take photos of my women’s cardigan at this point. The steps to seam are the same, just note that the girls cardigan has a little shaping in the shoulders and the women’s does not.

Four images showing the progression of the crochet cardigan.

Sleeves

Rnd 1 (RS): Join yarn at the bottom of the armhole opening, ch 1, work 1 sc into the side of each sc, 2 sc into the side of each dc, and 1 extra sc at the shoulder seam. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. Do not turn. (51, 55, 57, 61, 63, 69, 73, 75 sts)

Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first st, (sc2tog, sc in each of the next 10 (11, 12, 13, 13, 15, 16, 16) sts) rep from ( to ) around to the last 2 (2, 0, 0, 2, 0, 0, 2) sts, sc in each remaining st. Join. Do not turn.  (47 , 51 , 53, 57, 59, 65, 69, 71 sts)

Rnd 3 (RS): Alt-dc in the first st, dc in each sc around. Join. Turn.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) rep from ( to ) around. Join. Turn.

Rnds 5 – 8: Repeat Rnds 3 – 4.

Rnd 9: Alt-dc2tog over the first 2 sts, dc in each st around to the last 2 sts, dc2tog. Join. Turn. (45, 49, 51, 55, 57, 63, 67, 69 sts)

Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) rep from ( to ) around. Join. Turn.

Rnd 11: Alt-dc in the first st, dc in each sc and ch-1 sp around. Join. Turn.

Rnd 12: Repeat Rnd 10.

Rnd 13: Repeat Rnd 9.  (43, 47, 49, 53, 55, 61, 65, 67 sts)

Rnd 14: Repeat Rnd 10.

Rnd 15: Repeat Rnd 9. (41, 45, 47, 51, 53, 59, 63, 65 sts)

Rnd 16: Repeat Rnds 10.

Rnd 17: Repeat Rnd 9.  (39, 43, 45, 49, 51, 57, 61, 63 sts)

Rnd 18: Repeat Rnd 10.

Rnd 19: Repeat Rnd 9.  (37, 41, 43, 47, 49, 55, 59, 61 sts)

Rnds 20 – 22: Repeat Rnds 10 – 11, ending with a Rnd 10 repeat.

Rnd 23: Repeat Rnd 9. (35, 39, 41, 45, 47, 53, 57, 59 sts)

Rnds 24 – 26: Repeat Rnds 10 – 11, ending with a Rnd 10 repeat.

Rnd 27: Repeat Rnd 9. (33, 37, 39, 43, 45, 51, 55, 57 sts)

Rnd 28: Repeat Rnd 10.

Rnd 29: Repeat Rnd 9. (31, 35, 37, 41, 43, 49, 53, 55 sts)

Rnd 30: Repeat Rnds 10.

Rnd 31: Repeat Rnd 9.  (29, 33, 35, 39, 41, 47, 51, 53 sts)

Rnd 32: Repeat Rnd 10.

Rnd 33: Repeat Rnd 9. (27, 31, 33, 37, 39, 45, 49, 51 sts)

Rnds 34 – 37: Repeat Rnds 10 – 11. Do not turn at the end of Rnd 37.

Check Sleeve Length: Before you continue on to Rnd 38, try on your cardigan to check the length of the sleeve. Keep in mind that the last few rounds will add approximately 1″ to your sleeve length. If your sleeve is too short, continue repeating rounds 10 – 11. If your sleeve is too long, remove a round of two.

Rnds 38 – 41 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join.

Rnd 42 (RS): Sl st in each st around (be mindful not to work your sl sts too tightly or it’ll affect fit). Join using the Special Join Technique.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Repeat for the second sleeve. Then, continue on to Bottom Hem.

Bottom Hem

Row 1 (RS): With the RS facing you, join yarn with a standing sc in the st furthest to the right, sc in each st across the bottom edge of the cardigan.  (123, 137, 149, 163, 177, 191, 203, 217 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Collar.

Collar

Rotate to work up the front opening, around the neck, and back down the front opening.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 1 sc into the side of each sc row and 2 sc into the side of each dc row up and around the front opening and 1 sc in each unworked st across the top of the back panel. Turn. Stitch count isn’t crucial. Adjust your hook size, if needed, so that your collar isn’t wavy or puckered.

Rows 2 – 6: Ch 1, sc in each st. Turn.

Row 7 (RS): Ch 1, working on the RS of the cardigan (the backside of Row 6 sts), sl st in each st across. *This may feel a little odd to do, but will get the sl sts on the RS of the cardigan’s collar.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Pockets, if desired.

Pockets (Make 2)

Adjusting Pocket Size: If you’d prefer a wider pocket, simply increase your chain during set-up. If you’d like a deeper or more shallow pocket, simply work more or fewer repeats of Rows 2 – 3.

Set-up: Using a 5.00mm crochet hook, ch 20 (20, 20, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22).

Row 1 (RS): Working into the back hump of the foundation chain, sc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (19, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 21, 21 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the next st) rep from ( to ) across. Turn.

Row 3: Alt-dc in the first st, dc in each sc and ch-1 sp across. Turn.

Rows 4 – 17: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Row 18: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn.

Note: The spike sc worked along the top edge of the pocket, in the next row, will cause the top edge of the pocket to flare out a tiny bit. This is intentional, but if you do not like it, simply work sc in stead of spike sc in the next row.

Row 19: Ch 1, spike sc in each st across top edge, ch 1, rotate to work along remaining 3 sides, work 1 sc into the side of each sc row and 2 sc into the side of each dc row, work 1 sc into each st along the bottom edge, and work 1 extra sc in each of the bottom 2 corners, ch 1. Join with a sl st to the 1st spike st.

Fasten off leaving a 36″ tail of yarn for sewing the pocket onto the cardigan. Repeat for a second pocket, then continue on to Attaching the Pockets.

Attaching the Pockets

Step 1: Put your cardigan on and put her arms down as you would naturally. Use a stitch marker to mark where you would like the top edge of each pocket to be.

Step 2: Position the pockets so that the vertical edge closest to the front opening of the cardigan is lined up with Row 1 of the collar. See photos below. Use scrap pieces of yarn to hold the pocket in place during sewing.

Step 3: Using a yarn needle and yarn tail, sew the pocket onto the cardigan along the 2 vertical sides and bottom edge. Weave in ends.

Four images showing how to attach crochet pockets to the women's cardigan.

Blocking Your Crochet Cardigan

Close up of woman modeling a crochet cardigan in gold.
Pair this crochet cardigan with a turtleneck for added warmth and coziness.

I MADE IT! NOW WHAT?

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Happy Crocheting, Jennifer.

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26 Comments

  1. Great pattern!! Easy to understand and turns out just like the picture. The only thing I did different is when doing the border on the front and collar, I did 3 sc in each bottom front corner to prevent curling. I love it. It will be my go to sweater.

    Reply

  2. I made the Aurora cardigan for girls for my daughter & niece & they are beautiful & fit perfectly. Easy to understand & i love how there’s minimal seaming. I can’t wait to finish this adult pattern! Thanks for sharing!

    Reply

  3. Making one for daughter in law ( almost done ) . My daughter loves it so be making her one next .love ,love, love this !

    Reply

  4. I love this pattern! Now that the holidays are over, I’m going to try and make this. Just got a gift card to my favorite yarn shop, so I’m good o go.

    Reply

  7. I’ll have to add this one to my must make list for 2024. I’ve only done a few cardigans even though I’ve been crocheting for quite a while.

    Reply

  10. I have never made myself a wearable and I only started making any, but this is the one that I want to make just for me! I love it! I think it will probably be a medium gray, which is my favorite color. I really hope I can make myself proud.

    Reply

  13. This pattern is wonderful! I fell in love with it the moment I saw the photo on Pinterest, I knew I had to make it. Well written, easy to understand. I have had mine for a couple years now, and it’s one of my favorite garments I’ve made myself in a really long time! gonna make another soon, thank you for all you do and happy new year!

    Reply

  15. This is my second attempt. I love this sweater and I think it is going to be the first one I make for me. I love your patterns.

    Reply

  16. This was the first crochet garment I attempted. I was nervous about starting, but the pattern was very easy to follow and came together quickly.
    Being an experiment, I used a budget stiffer yarn and want to redo this with the recommended yarn!

    Reply

  19. I made this cardigan in the suggested Touch Of Alpaca yarn (in a pale pink). The instructions were easy to follow (I’m new to crochet and this was my first sweater) and I love the finished product! It’s very soft, warm and cozy.

    Reply

  20. I have enjoyed working on this cardigan. But I am having trouble getting the sleeves started. When I get to the rounds where I need to turn the work, the “back” is what is showing to the outside (does not match the body of the cardigan). I think it must be how I’m starting the first few rows. What do I need to do to make the “front” of the pattern be on the outside of the sleeve?

    Reply

    1. Hi Cindy,

      Is it possible that you don’t have the RS of the cardigan facing out? The RS of the dc rows should be facing out. Then when you begin the sleeves, the first 3 rounds are worked on the RS. Then turn and work Rnd 4 on the WS.

      If this doesn’t help, or make sense, feel free to e-mail me: [email protected]

      Jennifer

      Reply

  21. Hi,
    I love the look of the cardigan. I’ve never made myself anything to wear, but I think this should be the first!
    Thank you for all your patterns, they’re beautiful.

    Reply

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