Caragh Crochet Cardigan

You have never have too many handmade cardigans in your wardrobe. These are very rewarding projects and if you like to style up your outfits with differently colored outer garments, especially with yarn wearables in the cold months, you have to have plenty of sweaters on hand! This particular crochet cardigan pattern is easy to work up and has a basic construction.

You can choose the kind of fit you want when you decide the size of the cardigan. Some people prefer a more fitting look while others like oversized sweaters. Either way, you’ll find options in this step-by-step crochet pattern with pictures in between to guide you along the way.

Youโ€™ll find the free crochet cardigan pattern in the post below, or you can find an ad-free printable PDF (that includes all photo tutorials + schematic), on Ravelry, or Etsy (aff).

Blonde haired girl wearing a grey crochet cardigan with a white top and jeans.
Perfect to wear on a day out with friends and family or to run some quick errands.

The Caragh Crochet Cardigan will be your favorite piece for an evening walk post-dinner, a relaxed hangout with friends, or a quiet morning spent outdoors with a warm drink and your favorite book. As with all handmade items, you get to choose what color you want your sweater to be and if you plan on gifting it to a loved one, you can choose accordingly.

This is one of those classic patterns that you’ll keep returning to after you’ve made it once because of how simple and sweet it is. There’s nothing complicated in the stitch combination, construction, or shaping. All of it is very basic and with the detailed instructions, you won’t get lost at any point.

Related: If you want to make another cardigan with lots of warmth packed in it, you should check out the Cozy Cabled Crochet Cardigan.

How to Crochet a Cardigan

This crochet cardigan pattern has an easy construction that you’ll be able to grasp in your first go. It is worked from the bottom hem up to the shoulders. First, you’ll crochet the wide ribbed bottom edge, then crochet the body onto the long edge of this ribbed edging. Once you reach the bottom of the armholes, you’ll split this into three panels and crochet the upper right panel, then back panel, then upper left panel.

You’ll then seam the shoulders to form a vest-like structure (it’s always a good idea to try it on at this stage to make sure it fits right). After this step is done, crochet the sleeves right onto the armhole openings. Pockets are then crocheted and whipstitched onto the pocket openings.

Next, crochet a small pocket ribbing and whipstitch that on. You’re nearly done now! All you have to do is add the final touches with a simple edging around the front opening of the cardigan.

Blonde haired girl wearing a grey crochet cardigan with a white top and jeans leaning against a brick wall.

How To Get The

Caragh Crochet Cardigan Pattern

Option 1: Scroll down for the free sweater crochet pattern right here in this blog post.

Option 2: Purchase the ad-free printable PDF from one of my shops:

Best Yarn for Crochet Sweaters

For crochet sweaters, while there are many options to choose from, I used an acrylic and wool blend yarn. The added wool content gives it extra warmth and makes it the ideal garment for cold winters. Because of the acrylic, it holds its shape well and has good stitch definition, which is especially great for patterns that have ribbing such as this one.

It’s also readily available and can come in a variety of colors which allows you to choose just the right one for whoever is receiving this crochet sweater.

Choosing Which Size to Crochet

To choose your size, look over the size chart below.

  • ‘Fits Chest’ measurement is the measurement of the intended wearer, not the garment’s finished measurement.
  • Finished Chest, Sleeve Length, and Cardigan Length are measurements of the finished garment.
  • This cardigan has 6-8″+ of positive ease built in for a classic fit.
  • If you prefer more of an oversized cardigan, I would suggest making one size larger than chest size.
  • If you prefer a more fitted look, I would suggest sizing down (as long as your chest size fits range of the smaller size).
  • Cardigan length is measured from the nape of the neck down and includes the bottom ribbing.
  • Sleeve length is measured from the underarm of the cardigan to edge of the cuff.
  • Adjusting Cardigan Length: If you’d prefer a different cardigan length, there are instructions at the end of the Body of Cardigan section.
  • Adjusting Sleeve Length: If you need to adjust sleeve length, there are instructions with how to do so in the sleeve section.

Size & Yardage Chart

The notes above refer to this size chart.

Caragh Crochet Cardigan Size Chart.

Yarn

This womenโ€™s crochet sweater was designed with a worster weight yarn to make sure it would have a beautiful drape to it while also being warm enough for colder winter days. I chose not to use a bulkier yarn for fear it would then be too thick to be worn in the transitioning months of autumn and spring (we want to get the most wear out of this everyday piece) and anything lighter than this wouldn’t be as cozy.

I chose Lion Brand Wool-Ease Worsted in Grey Heather for my crochet sweater. This is a worsted weight / 4, acrylic and wool blend yarn and itโ€™s currently available in beautiful colors. This yarn offers a smooth even texture in a contemporary color palette with plenty of neutral tones.

The crochet women’s cardigan pattern is free below, but if you love to work offline, Iโ€™ve got a couple other great options for you.

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF, (that includes all photo tutorials+ a garment schematic), on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).

Purchase the Crochet Cardigan Kit: Lion Brand has a full crochet kit of the Caragh Crochet Cardigan, available on their website. Theย ย includes your choice of colors and a digital copy of the crochet pattern.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

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Materials

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch(s): chain(s)
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • ext sc: extended single crochet
  • extsc2tog: extended single crochet decrease
  • hdslst: half double slip stitch
  • yo: yarn over
  • BLO: back loop only
  • SM: stitch marker
  • Rep: repeat
  • RS: right side

Experience Level

  • Easy

Gauge

  • Gauge is given throughout the pattern in each individual section.

Sizes

  • Women’s XS – 5XL
  • See Size & Yardage Chart above.

Special Stitches

  • Extended Single Crochet (ext sc): Insert hook into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 1 loop on hook, yo, pull thru remaining two loops on hook.
  • Extended Single Crochet Decrease (extsc2tog): Insert hook into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 1 loop on hook, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru 1 loop on hook, yo, pull thru remaining loops on hook.
  • Half Double Crochet Decrease (hdc2tog): (Yo, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop) twice, yo, pull through all loops on your hook.
  • Half Double Slip Stitch (hdslst): Yo, insert your hook into the stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop and pull that loop through all loops on your hook.
  • Join yarn with a standing single crochet: Begin with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the stitch or space indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo and draw thru both loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

  • Turning chains are not counted as stitches, unless specified otherwise.
  • The first stitch of each row is worked into the same stitch as the beginning chain, unless noted otherwise.
  • Yarn Notes: Lion Brand Wool-Ease ( 197 yds / 180 m / 85 g / 3 oz / 80% Acrylic / 20% Wool) was used for the sample in the pictures. Other comparable yarns may be used as long as gauge is met.
  • Color & Yardage
    • Grey Heather: #620-151
    • See Size & Yardage Chart above.
  • Changes for Sizes as Follows: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
  • Stitch Counts as Follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
  • Construction Notes: This cardigan is worked from the bottom hem up to the shoulders. First, you’ll crochet the wide ribbed bottom edge, then crochet the body onto the long edge of this ribbed edging. Once you reach the bottom of the armholes, you’ll split this into three panels and crochet the upper right panel, then back panel, then upper left panel. You’ll then seam the shoulders. Next, crochet the sleeves right onto the armhole openings. Pockets are then crocheted and whipstitched onto the pocket openings. Next, crochet a small pocket ribbing and whipstitch that on. Lastly, you’ll add a simple edging around the front opening of the cardigan.
  • Once done, you can block if desired.
  • Find the progression photos for the pattern at the bottom.

Caragh Crochet Cardigan – Written Pattern

Changes for Sizes as Follows: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

Bottom Ribbing

Gauge: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, in BLO hdc: 10 sts = 2.75″; 12 rows = 5″.

Row 1: With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, ch 11, working into the back humps of the ch, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (10 sts)

Rows 2 – 85 (91, 100, 104, 112, 129, 135, 137, 144): Ch 1, BLO hdc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Body of Cardigan. Your Bottom Ribbing should measure approximately 2.75″ W x 36″ (38.25″, 42″, 43.75″, 47″, 54″, 56.75″, 57.5″, 60.5″) L.

Body of Cardigan

Row 1 Gauge Only: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, in sc: 12 sts = 3.5″.

Size XS

Row 1 (RS): After turning at the end of the last row of the ribbing, rotate to work along the long edge of the ribbing, work 2 sc in the first st, then (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 42 times. Turn. (128 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to X-Small – Body of Cardigan. The width of Row 1 should be approximately 37.5″.

Size S

Row 1 (RS): After turning at the end of the last row of the ribbing, rotate to work along the long edge of the ribbing, work 1 sc in the first st, then (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 45 times. Turn. (136 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Small – Body of Cardigan. The width of Row 1 should be approximately 40″.

Size M

Row 1 (RS): After turning at the end of the last row of the ribbing, rotate to work along the long edge of the ribbing, work (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 50 times. Turn. (150 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Medium – Body of Cardigan. The width of Row 1 should be approximately 44″.

Size L

Row 1 (RS): After turning at the end of the last row of the ribbing, rotate to work along the long edge of the ribbing, work (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 52 times. Turn. (156 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Large – Body of Cardigan. The width of Row 1 should be approximately 46″.

Size XL

Row 1 (RS): After turning at the end of the last row of the ribbing, rotate to work along the long edge of the ribbing, work (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 56 times. Turn. (168 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to X-Large – Body of Cardigan. The width of Row 1 should be approximately 49″.

Size 2XL

Row 1 (RS): After turning at the end of the last row of the ribbing, rotate to work along the long edge of the ribbing, work 2 sc in the first st, then (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 64 times. Turn. (194 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to 2-XLarge – Body of Cardigan. The width of Row 1 should be approximately 56.5″.

Size 3XL

Row 1 (RS): After turning at the end of the last row of the ribbing, rotate to work along the long edge of the ribbing, work 2 sc in the first st, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts, then (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 66 times. Turn. (204 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to 3-XLarge – Body of Cardigan. The width of Row 1 should be approximately 59.5″.

Size 4XL

Row 1 (RS): After turning at the end of the last row of the ribbing, rotate to work along the long edge of the ribbing, work 2 sc in the first st, then (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 68 times. Turn. (206 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to 4-XLarge – Body of Cardigan. The width of Row 1 should be approximately 60.5″.

Size 5XL

Row 1 (RS): After turning at the end of the last row of the ribbing, rotate to work along the long edge of the ribbing, work (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 72 times. Turn. (216 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to 5-XLarge – Body of Cardigan. The width of Row 1 should be approximately 63.5″.

Body of Cardigan – All Sizes

Gauge: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, in ext sc alternating FLO & BLO: 11 sts = 3.5″; 11 rows = 4.25″.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (128 sts)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the first st, * FLO ext sc in the next st, BLO ext sc in the next st, rep from * across to the last st, Both Loops ext sc in the last st . Turn. (128, 136, 150, 156, 168, 194, 204, 206, 216 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the first st, * BLO ext sc in the next st, FLO ext sc in the next st, rep from * across to the last st, Both Loops ext sc in the last st . Turn. (128, 136, 150, 156, 168, 194, 204, 206, 216 sts)

Rows 4 – 19: Rep Rows 2 – 3. Height is approximately 10″ H at end of Row 19.

In this next row, we’ll create an opening for the pocket.

Row 20: Ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the first st, (FLO ext sc in the next st, BLO ext sc in the next st) 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, FLO ext sc in the next st, Both Loops ext sc in the next st, loosely ch 13 (13, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17), skip each of the next 13 (13, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17) sts, Both Loops ext sc in the next st, (FLO ext sc in the next st, BLO ext sc in the next st) 41 (45, 46, 49, 55, 62, 67, 68, 73) times, Both Loops ext sc in the next st, loosely ch 13 (13, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17), skip each of the next 13 (13, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17) sts, Both Loops ext sc in the next st, BLO ext sc in the next st, (FLO ext sc in the next st, BLO ext sc in the next st) 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, Both Loops ext sc in the last st. Turn. (128, 136, 150, 156, 168, 194, 204, 206, 216 sts) including chains

Row 21: Ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the first st, (BLO ext sc in the next st, FLO ext sc in the next st) 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8) times, ext sc in each of the next 13 (13, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17) chs, (FLO ext sc in the next st, BLO ext sc in the next st) 42 (46, 47, 50, 56, 63, 68, 69, 74) times, ext sc in each of the next 13 (13, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17, 17) chs, (BLO ext sc in the next st, FLO ext sc in the next st) 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 8, 8, 8, 8) times, Both Loops ext sc in the last st. Turn. (128, 136, 150, 156, 168, 194, 204, 206, 216 sts)

Rows 22 – 47: Rep Rows 2 – 3.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Front Right Panel.

At this point, your cardigan should measure 37-1/2″ W x 20-1/2″ H, (40″ W x 20-1/2″ H) (44″ W x 20-1/2″ H) (46″ W x 20-1/2″ H) (49″ W x 20-1/2″ H) (56-1/2″ W x 20-1/2″ H) (59-1/2″ W x 20-1/2″ H) (60-1/2″ W x 20-1/2″ H) (63-1/2″ W x 20-1/2″ H).

Adjusting Cardigan Length: If you prefer a longer or shorter cardigan, this is where you would make that adjustment. If you would like a longer cardigan, add rows in multiples of 2. If you would prefer a shorter cardigan, subtract rows in multiples of 2.

Upper Front Right Panel

Gauge: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, in ext sc alternating FLO & BLO: 11 sts = 3.5″; 11 rows = 4.25″.

Continue on from the Body of Cardigan with yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the first st, (FLO ext sc in the next st, BLO ext sc in the next st) 15 (16, 18, 18, 19, 24, 25, 24, 25) times, FLO ext sc in the next st, Both Loops ext sc in the next st. Before turning, place a locking SM in the next stitch to mark where you will later join yarn to begin the Back Panel. Turn. (33, 35, 39, 39, 41, 51, 53, 51, 53 sts)

Rows 2 – 16 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26): Ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the first st, (FLO ext sc in the next st, BLO ext sc in the next st) 15 (16, 18, 18, 19, 24, 25, 24, 25) times, FLO ext sc in the next st, Both Loops ext sc in the last st. Turn. (33, 35, 39, 39, 41, 51, 53, 51, 53 sts)

Fasten off leaving a tail of yarn that is 3-4 times the width of the panel. This tail of yarn will be used later to seam the shoulders. Continue on to the Back Panel.

Your Upper Front Right Panel should measure (9″ W x 6-1/4″ H) (9-1/2″ W x 6-1/4″ H) (10-1/2″ W x 7″ H) (10-1/2″ W x 7-3/4″ H) (11″ W x 8-1/2″ H) (13-3/4″ W x 9-1/4″ H) (14-1/4″ W x 9-1/4″ H) (13-3/4″ W x 10″ H) (14-1/4″ W x 10″ H).

Back Panel

Gauge: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, in ext sc alternating FLO & BLO: 11 sts = 3.5″; 11 rows = 4.25″.

Row 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in the st you previously marked to begin the Back Panel, ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the same st, (BLO ext sc in the next st, FLO ext sc in the next st) 30 (32, 35, 38, 42, 45, 48, 51, 54) times, Both Loops ext sc in the next st. Before turning, place a locking SM in the next st to mark where you will later join yarn to begin the Upper Front Left Panel. Turn. (62, 66, 72, 78, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the first st, (FLO ext sc in the next st, BLO ext sc in the next st) rep from ( to ) across to the last st, Both Loops ext sc in the last st. Turn. (62, 66, 72, 78, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the first st, (BLO ext sc in the next st, FLO ext sc in the next st) rep from ( to ) across to the last st, Both Loops ext sc in the last st. Turn. (62, 66, 72, 78, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110 sts)

Rows 4 – 15 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 23, 25, 25): Rep Rows 2 – 3.

Row 16 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26): Rep Row 2.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Upper Front Left Panel.

Your Back Panel should measure (19-1/2″ W x 6-1/4″ H) (21″ W x 6-1/4″ H) (23″ W x 7″ H) (25″ W x 7-3/4″ H) (27″ W x 8-1/2″ H) (29″ W x 9-1/4″ H) (31″ W x 9-1/4″ H) (33″ W x 10″ H) (35″ W x 10″ H).

Upper Front Left Panel

Gauge: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, in ext sc alternating FLO & BLO: 11 sts = 3.5″; 11 rows = 4.25″.

Row 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in the st you previously marked to begin the Upper Front Left Panel, ch 1, ext sc in the same st, (BLO ext sc in the next st, FLO ext sc in the next st) 15 (16, 18, 18, 19, 24, 25, 24, 25) times, BLO ext sc in the next st, Both Loops ext sc in the last st. Turn. (33, 35, 39, 39, 41, 51, 53, 51, 53 sts)

Rows 2 – 16 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26): Ch 1, Both Loops ext sc in the first st, (BLO ext sc in the next st, FLO ext sc in the next st) 15 (16, 18, 18, 19, 24, 25, 24, 25) times, BLO ext sc in the next st, Both Loops ext sc in the last st. Turn. (33, 35, 39, 39, 41, 51, 53, 51, 53 sts)

Fasten off leaving a tail of yarn that is 3-4 times the width of the panel. This tail of yarn will be used later to seam the shoulders. Continue on to Seaming the Shoulders.

Your Upper Front Left Panel should measure (9″ W x 6-1/4″ H) (9-1/2″ W x 6-1/4″ H) (10-1/2″ W x 7″ H) (10-1/2″ W x 7-3/4″ H) (11″ W x 8-1/2″ H) (13-3/4″ W x 9-1/4″ H) (14-1/4″ W x 9-1/4″ H) (13-3/4″ W x 10″ H) (14-1/4″ W x 10″ H).

Seaming the Shoulders

Step 1: With the RS facing out, fold the two front panels in towards the center of the cardigan (as shown below), creating a fold where it splits for the sleeves. Line up the corners of the outer corners of the upper front panels with the corners of the back panel. To make it easier, I recommend using locking stitch markers to hold the panels in place during seaming.

Step 2: Leave a 2″ (2″, 2″, 4″, 5″, 5″, 6″, 6″, 6″) Wide gap between the front panels, along the top edge of the Back Panel. Use locking stitch markers to hold the panels in place.

Step 3: With the right side facing out, use a yarn needle and the tail of yarn left after completing the front panels and whipstitch a front panel to the back panel. Repeat for the second front panel.

Weave in ends. Continue on to the Sleeve Set-Up.

Sleeve Set-Up

X-Small & Small

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in a stitch nearest the bottom of the armhole opening, sc in the next st, (2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts) work from ( to ) 10 times. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (42, 42 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeves for the size you’re making.

Medium

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in a stitch nearest the bottom of the armhole opening, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, (sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 11 times. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (48 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeves for the size you’re making.

Large

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in a stitch nearest the bottom of the armhole opening, sc in each of the next 5 sts, (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 14 times, then sc in each of the last 6 sts. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (54 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeves for the size you’re making.

X-Large

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in a stitch nearest the bottom of the armhole opening, sc in the next st, (2 sc in the next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts) work from ( to ) 14 times. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (58 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeves for the size you’re making.

2XL & 3XL

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in a stitch nearest the bottom of the armhole opening, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st, (sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 15 times. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (64, 64 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeves for the size you’re making.

4XL & 5XL

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in a stitch nearest the bottom of the armhole opening, sc in each of the next 3 sts, (sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 16 times. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (68, 68 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeves for the size you’re making.

Sleeves – Sizes XS, S, M, L & XL

Gauge: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, in ext sc alternating FLO & BLO: 12 sts = 3.5″; 11 rows = 4.25″.

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, (ext sc in the BLO of the next st, ext sc in the FLO of the next st) rep from ( to ) around. Join. Turn. (42, 42, 48, 54, 58 sts)

Rnd 2 (WS): Ch 1, (ext sc in the FLO of the next st, ext sc in the BLO of the next st) rep from ( to ) around. Join. Turn. (42, 42, 48, 54, 58 sts)

Rnds 3 – 4: Rep Rnds 1 – 2.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, Both Loops extsc2tog, (ext sc in the BLO of the next st, ext sc in the FLO of the next st) rep from ( to ) around to the last 2 sts, Both Loops extsc2tog. Join. Turn. (40, 40, 46, 52, 56 sts) Stitch count decreases by 2.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, (ext sc in the BLO of the next st, ext sc in the FLO of the next st) rep from ( to ) around. Join. Turn. (40, 40, 46, 52, 56 sts) Stitch count does not decrease.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, (ext sc in the FLO of the next st, ext sc in the BLO of the next st) rep from ( to ) around. Join. Turn. (40, 40, 46, 52, 56 sts) Stitch count does not decrease.

Do not fasten off. Continue on with the instructions for the size sleeves you’re making.

Sizes XS & S

Rnds 8 – 10: Rep Rnds 5 – 7. (38, 38 sts)

Rnds 11 – 12: Rep Rnds 6 – 7. (38, 38 sts)

Rnds 13 – 18: Rep Rnds 5 – 7. (34, 34 sts)

Rnds 19 – 22: Rep Rnds 6 – 7. (34, 34 sts)

Rnds 23 – 28: Rep Rnds 5 – 7. (30, 30 sts)

Rnds 29 – 40: Rep Rnds 6 – 7. (30, 30 sts)

Rnd 41 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. Do not turn. (30, 30 sts)

If you need to lengthen your sleeve, simply repeat Rnds 6 – 7, before you complete Rnd 41. Note that the cuff will add 2″ to the length of your sleeve.

Do not fasten off. Continue onto the Ribbed Sleeve Cuff. Sleeve should measure 16″ L before the cuff.

Size Medium

Rnds 8 – 31: Rep Rnds 5 – 7. (30 sts) at the end of Rnd 29.

Rnds 32 – 40: Rep Rnds 6 – 7, ending with a Rnd 6. (30 sts)

Rnd 41 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. Do not turn. (30 sts)

If you need to lengthen your sleeve, simply repeat Rnds 6 – 7, before you complete Rnd 41. Note that the cuff will add 2″ to the length of your sleeve.

Do not fasten off. Continue onto the Ribbed Sleeve Cuff. Sleeve should measure 16″ L before the cuff.

Size Large

Rnds 8 – 28: Rep Rnds 5 – 7. (38 sts) at the end of Rnd 26.

Rnds 29 – 40: Rep Rnds 6 – 7. (38 sts)

Rnd 41 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. Do not turn. (38 sts)

If you need to lengthen your sleeve, simply repeat Rnds 6 – 7, before you complete Rnd 41. Note that the cuff will add 2″ to the length of your sleeve.

Do not fasten off. Continue onto the Ribbed Sleeve Cuff. Sleeve should measure 16″ L before the cuff.

Size X-Large

Rnds 8 – 34: Rep Rnds 5 – 7. (38 sts) at the end of Rnd 32.

Rnds 35 – 40: Rep Rnds 6 – 7. (38 sts)

Rnd 41 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. Do not turn. (38 sts)

If you need to lengthen your sleeve, simply repeat Rnds 6 – 7, before you complete Rnd 41. Note that the cuff will add 2″ to the length of your sleeve.

Do not fasten off. Continue onto the Ribbed Sleeve Cuff. Sleeve should measure 16″ L before the cuff.

Sleeves – Sizes 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL

Gauge: With a 6.00mm crochet hook, in ext sc alternating FLO & BLO: 12 sts = 3.5″; 11 rows = 4.25″.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, Both Loops extsc2tog, (ext sc in the BLO of the next st, ext sc in the FLO of the next st) rep from ( to ) around to the last 2 sts, Both Loops extsc2tog. Join. Turn. (64, 64, 68, 68 sts) Stitch count decreases by 2.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, (ext sc in the BLO of the next st, ext sc in the FLO of the next st) rep from ( to ) around. Join. Turn. (62, 62, 66, 66 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, (ext sc in the FLO of the next st, ext sc in the BLO of the next st) rep from ( to ) around. Join. Turn. (62, 62, 66, 66 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on with the instructions for the size sleeves you’re making.

Sizes 2X & 3X

Rnds 4 – 39: Rep Rnds 1 – 3. (38, 38 sts) at the end of Rnd 37.

Rnd 40: Rep Rnd 2. (38, 38 sts)

Rnd 41 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. Do not turn. (38, 38 sts)

If you need to lengthen your sleeve, simply continue repeating Rnds 2 – 3, before competing Rnd 41. Note that the cuff will add 2″ to the length of your sleeve.

Do not fasten off. Continue onto the Ribbed Sleeve Cuff. Sleeve should measure 16″ L before the cuff.

Sleeves – Sizes 4X & 5X

Rnds 4 – 37: Rep Rnds 1 – 3, ending with a Rnd 1. (42, 42 sts) at the end of Rnd 37.

Rnd 38: Rep Rnd 1. (40, 40 sts)

Rnd 39 – 40: Rep Rnds 2 – 3. (40, 40 sts)

Rnd 41 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. Do not turn. (40, 40 sts)

If you need to lengthen your sleeve, simply continue repeating Rnds 2 – 3, before competing Rnd 41. Note that the cuff will add 2″ to the length of your sleeve.

Do not fasten off. Continue onto the Ribbed Sleeve Cuff below. Sleeve should measure 16″ L before the cuff.

Ribbed Sleeve Cuff

Row 1: Continuing on from the sleeve with a 6.00mm crochet hook, ch 6, working into the back humps of the ch, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook, hdc in each of the next 3 sts, hdc2tog in next st and same st as ch 6. Do not turn yet. (5 sts)

Row 2: (Sl st into the NEXT st along the edge of the sleeve) 2 times, Turn, BLO hdc in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, BLO hdc in the first st, BLO hdc in each of the next 3 sts, BLO hdc2tog in the next st and the NEXT st along the edge of the sleeve. (5 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the size you’re making.

Photo Tutorial

The photos in the following tutorial are of a basic ribbed cuff. The stitch count varies from this written pattern. Follow the written instructions and use the photos as a visual aid.

Crochet cowl neck tutorial showing how to work directly on the neck opening.
Photo A: This photo shows the beginning of Row 1 of the ribbed cuff. The yarn needle is showing where to work the first hdc into the 2nd ch form your hook.
Photo B: Photo shows Row 1 complete to the hdc2tog. The yarn needles are showing where to work the hdc2tog.
Photo C: This photo shows the hdc2tog complete. The yarn needles are inserted into the next 2 sts along the edge of the sleeve where you will work the 2 sl sts at the beginning of row 2.
How to attach a crochet cowl to the neck opening of a crochet sweater.
Photo D: This photo shows the beginning of Row 2 of the ribbed cuff. The yarn needles are showing the first 2 sl sts of Row 2 that you will work before turning. I also placed a SM in the hdc2tog to help locate the first st to work into after we turn to finish working Row 2.
Photo E: After turning to work the rest of Row 2, you can see the 2 sl sts and the stitch marker where you will work the first hdc.
Photo F: This photo shows Row 2 of the ribbed cuff complete. I placed a SM in the FLO of the last stitch of the row to mark the loop where I need to begin the next row.
A few rows of a crochet cowl worked in pink.
Photo G: The SM in this photo shows where to work the first stitch of Row 3. The yarn needles show where to work the hdc2tog at the end of the row.
Photo H: The yarn needles are showing the 2 sts along the edge of the cowl where you will work the first two sl sts of Row 4. The SM is placed in the FLO of the hdc2tog to mark where to work the first hdc in the next row.
Photo I: Begin Row 4 by sl st in the next 2 stitches along the edge of the sleeve.
A small swatch to show how to work the crochet cowl.
Photo J: In this photo, you can see the 2 sl sts you worked before turning and the SM that’s marking where to work the first hdc.
Photo K: This photo shows Rows 1 – 4 complete.
Photo: The only thing left to do is to seam the ribbed cuff. This photo shows the ribbed cuff complete on my swatch. The first row is on the left and the last row is on the right.
Photo: Line up the stitches of the first and last rows. Use a yarn needle and tail of yarn to whipstitch the rows together.
Photo Top and Right: The photos above show progress pics of the whipstitch seam being created.

Sizes XS, S & M

Rows 4 – 20: Rep Rows 2 – 3, ending with a Row 2. (5 sts)

Fasten off leaving an 8″ tail of yarn. Using a yarn needle and the tail of yarn, whipstitch the last row to the first row. Weave in ends. Sleeve should measure 18″ L. Continue on to the Pockets.

Sizes L, XL, 2X & 3X

Rows 4 – 25: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (5 sts)

Row 26: Sl st into the NEXT st along the edge of the sleeve, Turn, BLO hdc in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (5 sts)

Fasten off leaving an 8″ tail of yarn. Using a yarn needle and the tail of yarn, whipstitch the last row to the first row. Weave in ends. Sleeve should measure 18″ L. Continue on to the Pockets.

Sizes 4X & 5X

Rows 4 – 27: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (5 sts)

Fasten off leaving an 8″ tail of yarn. Using a yarn needle and the tail of yarn, whipstitch the last row to the first row. Weave in ends. Sleeve should measure 18″ L. Continue on to the Pockets.

Pocket Pouch (Make 2)

Rnd 1: With a 6.00mm crochet hook & yarn, make a chain that is the same size as the perimeter of the pocket opening, join with a sl st to the 1st ch to form a circle. Stitch count isn’t crucial.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, working in the back humps of the ch, sc in each ch around. Join.

Rnds 3 – 23: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join.

Pocket Seam: Lay the pocket flat so that you have a double layer of stitches from the last round. Line up stitches from the last round, then seam the pocket by working a sc across, making sure to work through both layers.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Make the second pocket, then continue on to Attaching the Pockets.

Attaching the Pockets

Step One: Insert a pocket into the pocket opening. Line up the opening in the pocket with the pocket opening on the cardigan. Use a few locking stitch markers to hold it in place while attaching it to the cardigan.

Step Two: With a yarn needle and piece of yarn that is 3 – 4 times the perimeter of the pocket, whipstitch the open edge of the pocket to the pocket opening in the cardigan.

Weave in ends. Repeat for the second pocket. Continue on to the Pocket Ribbing.

Pocket Ribbing – Make 2 (Optional)

Row 1: With a 4.00mm crochet hook and yarn, ch 7, working in the back hump of the foundation ch, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (6 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, BLO hdc in each st across. Turn. (6 sts)

Rep Row 2 until your pocket ribbing measures just a tad shorter than the length of the pocket opening. So when stretched a little, it should measure the length of the pocket opening.

Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn 3 – 4 times the length of the pocket ribbing. Line up the long edge of the pocket ribbing with the pocket opening. Use a yarn needle and tail of yarn and whipstitch the pocket ribbing to the top of the pocket opening.

Then, sew the short edges of the pocket ribbing onto the cardigan.

Weave in ends. Continue on to the Front Opening Edge.

Front Opening Edge

Row 1 (RS): Position the cardigan so that the right side is facing you, with yarn & a 6.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the bottom corner of the cardigan’s right panel, sc in each st across the bottom ribbing, sc in each st up along the front opening of the cardigan, sc in each st across the back neck opening, sc in each st down along the left side of the front opening to the bottom ribbing, sc in each st across the bottom ribbing. Turn. Stitch count is not crucial.

Row 2: Ch 1, BLO hdslst in each st around the opening. Turn. Stitch count stays the same.

Row 3: Ch 1, BLO sc in each st around. Turn. Stitch count stays the same.

Row 4: Rep Row 2. Stitch count stays the same.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Your cardigan is ready to wear!

Progression Photos

The cardigan shown in the tutorial photos is a size Small, but the photos below pertain to all sizes.

A grey crochet panel against a wooden background.
The photo shows the Body of Cardigan worked up to and including the row with the pocket openings.
A grey crochet cardigan in progress against a wooden background.
The photo shows a close-up of a pocket opening.
A grey crochet cardigan in progress against a wooden background.
The photo shows the Body of Cardigan worked up to the bottom of the armhole opening. This is where you will split for the front and back panels.
A grey crochet panel against a wooden background.
This photo shows a close-up of Row 1 of the Upper Right Panel.
A grey crochet cardigan in progress against a wooden background.
This photo shows the Upper Right Panel complete.
A grey crochet cardigan in progress against a wooden background.
This photo shows the Back Panel complete.
A grey crochet cardigan in progress against a wooden background.
This photo shows the Upper Left Panel complete.
A grey crochet cardigan in progress against a wooden background.
This photo shows seaming of the shoulders.
Seaming a grey crochet piece together.
This photo shows seaming of the shoulders.
A grey crochet cardigan in progress against a wooden background.
This photo shows seaming of the shoulders.
A grey crochet cardigan against a wooden background.
This photo shows the cardigan after completing both sleeves.
A grey crochet cardigan in progress against a wooden background.
This photo above shows both pocket pouches and pocket ribbings complete.
Seaming the pockets of a crochet cardigan.
This photo shows a pocket pouch inserted into a pocket opening on the body of the cardigan. I prefer to use several locking stitch markers to hold the pocket pouch in place while sewing it to the pocket opening.
Seaming the pockets of a crochet cardigan.
This photo shows a pocket pouch being sewn into the pocket opening.
Pocket of a grey crochet cardigan.
This photo shows a close-up of a pocket ribbing attached to the pocket opening.
Blonde haired girl wearing a grey crochet cardigan with a white top and jeans.
With a pair of sneakers and your favorite jeans, this is the best casual outfit for cooler months.

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Happy Crocheting, Jennifer.

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