Ambrose Quarter Button Crochet Men’s Sweater

Are you looking for the perfect crochet men’s sweater that combines comfort and fashion? This quarter button sweater is the one he’ll toss on whenever he’s on-the-go because of its effortless style and endless warmth.

The construction is a lot easier than it looks and if you’re an adventurous beginner, you can breeze through this pattern and proudly claim it as your first garment project.

You’ll find the free crochet mens sweater pattern in the post below,  or you can find an ad-free printable PDF (that includes all photo tutorials + schematic), on Ravelry, or Etsy (aff).

A man walking through a field wearing a beige crochet men's sweater, blue jeans and hat.
Whether to walk the dogs outside or fetch something from the shed, this sweater is the perfect companion.

This crochet men’s sweater is a versatile wardrobe piece that combines style and practicality and he’ll stay warm with its long sleeves and thick yarn content. It can be worn casually over a t-shirt for a relaxed vibe or layered over a collared shirt for a semi-formal outfit. Depending on the colors the intended receiver prefers, you can switch up the yarn type to achieve different looks.

The large buttons also add a lot of personality to this piece and keep the collar from being too stifling. After you’ve made this sweater once, you’ll want to make it again because of how easy the pattern is to follow!

How to Crochet a Sweater

Don’t be daunted if you haven’t worked up a crochet men’s sweater before. This is a great first pattern because of the detailed instructions and notes.

The Ambrose Quarter Button Sweater is a modified drop shoulder sweater. The waistband is crocheted first. Then you’ll work the men’s sweater from the bottom up beginning by working into the sides of the waistband.

You’ll then split for the front and back panels and create the armhole openings. After the main portion of the sweater is completed, you’ll whipstitch the shoulder seams in a secure manner. The sleeves are then crocheted directly onto the sweater (no extra seaming!) and worked from armhole to cuff.

Lastly, you’ll crochet a button flap, buttonhole flap, and a stretchy ribbing around the neck opening which allows for great breathability. The finishing touch for your quarter-button sweater is the attachment of buttons.

A man standing in a field with his back to the camera wearing a beige crochet sweater and hat.

How To Get The

Ambrose Quarter Button Men’s Sweater Pattern

Option 1: Scroll down for the free sweater crochet pattern right here in this blog post.

Option 2: Purchase the ad-free printable PDF from one of my shops:

Best Yarn for Crochet Sweaters

For crochet sweaters, while there are many options to choose from, I used a 100% acrylic yarn. This type of yarn is easy to care for and it suits a practical, everyday garment. It also holds its shape well and has good stitch definition, which is especially great for patterns that have ribbing such as this one.

It’s also readily available and can come in a variety of colors which allows you to choose just the right one for whoever is receiving this crochet sweater.

Choosing Which Size to Crochet

The model wears a men’s large and is shown wearing a large sample.

To choose your size, look over the size chart below.

  • Fits Chest’ measurement is the measurement of the intended wearer, not the garment’s finished measurement.
  • Finished Chest and Finished Length are measurements of the finished garment.
  • This men’s crochet sweater has 2 – 4″+ of positive ease built in for a relaxed fit.
  • If you prefer a more fitted look, I would suggest sizing down (as long as your chest size fits range of the smaller size).
  • Sweater length is measured from the top of the shoulder to the bottom edge of sweater (including the bottom ribbing).
  • Adjusting Sweater Length: See the notes at the end of the Body of Sweater section for adjusting length. Note: If you add length to your sweater, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart below.
  • Adding Length to the Sleeves: See the notes at the end of each sleeve section for adding length.

Size & Yardage Chart

The notes above refer to this size chart.

Ambrose Quarter Button Men's Sweater Size Chart.

Yarn

This men’s crochet sweater was designed with a worsted weight yarn to make sure it would be warm enough to be worn on colder winter days. I chose not to use a bulky yarn for fear it would then be too thick to be worn in the transitioning months of autumn and spring (we want to get the most wear out of this everyday piece).

I chose Lion Brand Color Theory in Bone for my crochet sweater. This is a worsted weight / 4, acrylic yarn and it’s currently available in 18 colors. This yarn offers a smooth even texture in a contemporary color palette, making it a great option for menswear.

The crochet mens sweater pattern is free below, but if you love to work offline, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF, (that includes all photo tutorials+ a garment schematic), on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).

Purchase the crochet sweater kit (aff): Lion Brand has a full kit of the Ambrose Quarter Button Crochet Men’s Sweater, available on their website. The crochet men’s sweater kit includes your choice of colors and a digital copy of the crochet pattern.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

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Materials

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch(s): chain(s)
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • sc2tog: single crochet decrease
  • hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 together
  • RS: Right Side
  • WS: Wrong Side
  • Rnd(s): round(s)
  • Rep: repeat
  • SM: stitch marker
  • BLO / FLO: back loop only, front loop only
  • yo: yarn over
  • Join yarn with a standing sc

Experience Level

  • Easy / Intermediate

Gauge

  • See Individual Sections for Gauge.

Sizes

  • Men’s Sizes: X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X-Large, 3X- Large, 4X-Large)
  • See Size & Yardage Chart above.

Special Stitches

  • Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog): Insert hook into stitch indicated, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next st indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull thru remaining loops on hook.
  • Half Double Crochet Two Together (hdc2tog): (Yo, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up a loop) twice, yo, pull through all loops on your hook.
  • Join yarn with a standing sc: When instructed to “Join yarn with a standing sc”, begin with a slip knot on your hook. Insert your hook into the stitch or space indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo and draw thru both loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

  • I tend to crochet on the tighter side. You may need to go down a hook size (or two) to meet gauge if you crochet on the looser side.
  • The first stitch of a row or round is worked in the same stitch as the turning chain, unless otherwise specified.
  • Yarn Notes: Lion Brand Yarns Color Theory in Bone [#619-122X] (3.5 oz / 100 g / 246 yards / 225 m / 100% acrylic). Other worsted weight yarns may be substituted as long as you are able to meet gauge and you’re satisfied with the drape of the fabric.
  • Changes for sizes are written as follows: X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X-Large, 3X-Large, 4X-Large)
  • Stitch Counts Written as Follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X sts)
  • Model wears a men’s large. Shown wearing a large sample.
  • Construction: The Ambrose Quarter Button Sweater is a modified drop shoulder sweater. The waistband is crocheted first. Then you’ll work the men’s sweater from the bottom up beginning by working into the sides of the waistband. You’ll then split for the front and back panels and create the armhole openings. After the main portion of the sweater is completed, you’ll whipstitch the shoulder seams. The sleeves are then crocheted directly onto the sweater and worked from armhole to cuff. Lastly, you’ll crochet a button flap, buttonhole flap, and a stretchy ribbing around the neck opening. Finish your quarter-button sweater by attaching buttons.

Ambrose Quarter Button Crochet Men’s Sweater – Written Pattern

Waistband

In this section, you’ll crochet the waistband in rows. Then seam the first and last row to form a ring.

Changes for Sizes Written as Follows: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)

Stitch Counts Written as Follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X sts)

Gauge: In waistband pattern as written below, with 5.00mm hook, 10 sts = 2.375″; 10 rows = 3.75″ H

Row 1: With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook, ch 11, working in the back humps of the chain, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook and in each ch across. Turn. (10 sts)

Rows 2 – 93 (101, 112, 122, 133, 144, 155, 165): Ch 1, BLO hdc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Seam the Waistband: Bring the first row up to meet the last row (the last row should be closest to you), ch 1, sl st the last row to the first row in each st across. (10 sts)

Note: This is the WS of the waistband. The seaming row does not count as a row when working the next step.

Do not fasten off. Turn the waistband right side out, then continue on to Prepare Waistband for Body of Sweater for the size you’re making.

Waistband should measure approximately (35″, 38″, 42″, 46″, 50″, 54″, 58″, 62″) long before seaming.

Prepare Waistband for Body of Sweater

In this section, you’ll be crocheting around the edge of the waistband. Insert your hook right into the hdc stitches along the edge.

Gauge: In sc with 5.00mm: = 15 sc = 3.75″

Crochet waistband against a wooden background.
Waistband before seaming the first and last rows.
Crochet waistband against a wooden background.
Waistband after seaming the first and last rows.
A crochet hook inserted in the crochet waistband with stitch markers attached to it.
The stitch markers are marking where I inserted my hook to work the stitches from Prepare Waistband for Body of Sweater.

Size XS

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, then (sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 46 times. Join with a sl st to the first st. (140 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Body of Sweater.

Size S

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, then (sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 50 times. Join with a sl st to the first st. (152 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Body of Sweater.

Size M

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, (sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 56 times. Join with a sl st to the first st. (168 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Body of Sweater.

Size L

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, 2 sc in each of the first 2 sts, then (sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 60 times. Join with a sl st to the first st. (184 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Body of Sweater.

Size XL

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, then (sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 66 times. Join with a sl st to the first st. (200 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Body of Sweater.

Size 2X

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, (sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 72 times. Join with a sl st to the first st. (216 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Body of Sweater.

Size 3X

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first st, then (sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 77 times. Join with a sl st to the first st. (232 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Body of Sweater.

Size 4X

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, then (sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st) work from ( to ) 82 times. Join with a sl st to the first st. (248 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Body of Sweater.

Body of Sweater – All Sizes

Changes for Sizes as Follows: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll be working in joined and turned rounds meaning you’ll join at the end of each round and then turn your work to crochet the next round. You’ll be working from the top of the waistband up to the bottom of the armhole openings. The seam will end up at the garment’s left side.

Note: The body of your quarter-button sweater will flare out a bit from the waistband as you work. This is intentional because the waistband is stretchy. As long as you compare your pullover to the schematic and the measurements included throughout the pattern, it will turn out to be the correct size as it’s written. Do this frequently as you work.

See the note below for instructions on lengthening the torso of the sweater.

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first st, ch 1, skip the next st, (sc in the next st, ch 1, skip the next st) work from ( to ) around. Join with a sl st to the first st. Turn. (140, 152, 168, 184, 200, 216, 232, 248 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (1 turning ch & the first ch-1 stitch, counts as one stitch in stitch count), skip the first ch-1, sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) around. Join with a sl st to the first ch. Turn. (140, 152, 168, 184, 200, 216, 232, 248 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1, (sc in the next sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1) work from ( to ) around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Turn. (140, 152, 168, 184, 200, 216, 232, 248 sts)

Rep Rnds 2 – 3, ending with a Rnd 2, until your sweater measures 16″ (16.5″, 16.75″, 17″, 17.25″, 17.5″, 18″, 18″) H (including the waistband).

Adding Length: If you’d like to add length to the torso of your pullover, continue to repeat rounds 2 – 3 until you’ve added the extra length. Make sure to end with a repeat of Round 2 so that your stitches line up with the next section.

Note: If you add length to your sweater, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Upper Front Panel – Armhole Shaping.

Completed body of a crochet sweater for men.
Body of Sweater complete.

Upper Front Panel – Armhole Shaping

Changes for Sizes as Follows: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll begin the upper front panel from the sweater’s left armhole opening, working to the right armhole opening. You’ll add simple shaping to the armholes by working decrease stitches when you begin and end each row.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc2tog in the first sc & ch-1, (sc in the next sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1) work from ( to ) 33 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) times, sc2tog in the next sc & ch-1. Place a SM in the next sc to mark where to later join yarn for the Back Panel. Turn. (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114, 122 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog in the first sc & ch-1, (sc in the next sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1) work from ( to ) across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog over the last 2 sts. Turn. (66, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120 sts)

Rows 3 – 8 (8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 22): Rep Row 2. (54, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 76, 80 sts) at the end of the last row.

Row 9 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 21, 21): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1, (sc in the next sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1) work from ( to ) across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog over the last 2 sts. Turn. (53, 59, 63, 67, 71, 75, 75, 79 sts)

After working the armhole shaping, the Upper Front Panel should measure 13.25″ W x 1.75″ H (14.75″ W x 1.75″ H) (15.75″ W x 2.25″ H) (16.75″ W x 2.75″ H) (17.75″ W x 3.25″ H) (18.75″ W x 3.75″ H) (18.75″ W x 4.75″ H) (19.75″ W x 4.75″ H).

Do not fasten off. Sizes: XS, 3X, & 4X, continue on to the Upper Right Panel. Sizes: S, M, L, XL, & 2X, continue on to the Upper Front Panel below.

Working the upper front panel of the crochet sweater.
Row 1 of the Upper Front Panel – Armhole Shaping complete and a SM placed to mark where to later join yarn for the Back Panel.
Working the upper front panel of the crochet sweater.
Upper Front Panel – Armhole Shaping complete.

Upper Front Panel – Sizes S, M, L, XL & 2X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: S (M, L, XL, 2X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (S, M, L, XL, 2X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll continue the upper front panel without decreasing.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (59, 63, 67, 71, 75 sts)

Row 2: Rep Row 1. (59, 63, 67, 71, 75 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Upper Right Panel.

Working the upper front panel of the crochet men's sweater.
Upper Front Panel complete.

Upper Right Panel – Size XS

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll begin the Upper Right Panel, working from the sweater’s right armhole opening towards the opening for the buttonhole edge.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) 11 times, sc in the next ch-1 sp. Skip each of the next 5 stitches and place a SM in the next ch-1 to mark where to later join yarn for the Upper Left Panel. Turn. (24 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (24 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last st, sc in the last sc. Turn. (24 sts)

Rows 4 – 15: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (24 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Right Panel – Neck Shaping for the size you’re making.

Upper Right Panel – Sizes S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll begin the Upper Right Panel, working from the sweater’s right armhole opening towards the opening for the buttonhole edge.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 17, 18) times. Skip each of the next 5 stitches and place a SM in the next sc to mark where to later join yarn for the Upper Left Panel. Turn. (27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 35, 37 sts)

Rows 2 – 15: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 35, 37 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Right Panel – Neck Shaping for the size you’re making.

Working the upper right panel of the crochet sweater.
Row 1 of the Upper Right Panel complete and a SM placed to mark where to later join yarn to begin the Upper Left Panel.
Working the upper right panel of the crochet sweater.
Upper Right Panel complete.

Upper Right Panel – Neck Shaping – Size XS

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add decreases for the neck shaping. Once this section reaches a specific height, you’ll finish with a little simple shoulder shaping.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 5 sts (not counted as sts), work in both loops for the remainder of the row, sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (19 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog (in the next ch-1 sp and sc). Turn. (18 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog (in the first sc and ch-1 sp), (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (17 sts)

Rows 4 – 7: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (13 sts)

Rows 8 – 12: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (13 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Right Panel – Shoulder Shaping. Your Upper Right Panel should measure 3.25″ W.

Upper Right Panel – Shoulder Shaping – Size XS

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add simple shoulder shaping and finish your upper right panel.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) 4 times, skip the remaining 4 sts. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 2 sts (not included in st count), sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) 3 times. Turn. (7 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) 3 times, skip the remaining 2 sl sts. (7 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Upper Left Panel for the size you’re making.

Upper Right Panel – Neck Shaping – Sizes S, XL, 2X, 3X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (S, XL, 2X, 3X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (S, XL, 2X, 3X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add decreases for the neck shaping. Once this section reaches a specific height, you’ll finish with a little simple shoulder shaping.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first (5, 7, 7, 7) sts (not counted as sts), work in both loops for the remainder of the row, sc in the next ch-1 sp, sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (22, 26, 28, 28 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 3 sts, ch 1, skip the next ch-1 sp, sc2tog. Turn. (21, 25, 27, 27 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog (in the next sc and ch-1), sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (20, 24, 26, 26 sts)

Rows 4 – 7: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (16, 20, 22, 22 sts) at the end of Row 7.

Row 8: Rep Row 2. (15, 19, 21, 21 sts)

Rows 9 – 12: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (15, 19, 21, 21 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Right Panel – Shoulder Shaping for the size you’re making. Your Upper Right Panel should measure (3.75″, 4.75″, 5.25″, 5.25″) W.

Upper Right Panel – Shoulder Shaping – Sizes S, XL, 2X, 3X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (S, XL, 2X, 3X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (S, XL, 2X, 3X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add simple shoulder shaping and finish your upper right panel.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) (5, 7, 8, 8) times, skip the remaining 4 sts. Turn. (11, 15, 17, 17 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 2 sts (not included in st count), sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (9, 13, 15, 15 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) (4, 6, 7, 7) times, skip the remaining 2 sts. (9, 13, 15, 15 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Upper Left Panel for the size you’re making.

Upper Right Panel – Neck Shaping – Sizes M, L, 4X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (M, L, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (M, L, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add decreases for the neck shaping. Once this section reaches a specific height, you’ll finish with a little simple shoulder shaping.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first (6, 6, 8) sts (not counted as sts), work in both loops for the remainder of the row, sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (23, 25, 29 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog (in the next ch-1 and sc). Turn. (22, 24, 28 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (21, 23, 27 sts)

Rows 4 – 7: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (17, 19, 23 sts) at the end of Row 7.

Row 8: Rep Row 2. (16, 18, 22 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (16, 18, 22 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last st, sc in the last st. Turn. (16, 18, 22 sts)

Rows 11 – 12: Rep Rows 9 – 10. (16, 18, 22 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Right Panel – Shoulder Shaping for the size you’re making. Your Upper Right Panel should measure (4″, 4.5″, 5.5″) W.

Upper Right Panel – Shoulder Shaping – Sizes M, L, 4X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (M, L, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (M, L, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add simple shoulder shaping and finish your upper right panel.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) (5, 6, 8) times, skip the remaining 4 sts. Turn. (12, 14, 18 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 2 sts (not included in st count), sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) (4, 5, 7) times, sc in the last st. Turn. (10, 12, 16 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) (4, 5, 7) times, skip the remaining 2 sts. (10, 12, 16 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to the Upper Left Panel for the size you’re making.

Working the upper right panel of the crochet men's sweater.
Upper Right Panel Neck Shaping & Shoulder Shaping complete.

Upper Left Panel – Size XS

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll begin the Upper Right Panel, working from the sweater’s right armhole opening towards the opening for the buttonhole edge.

Row 1 (WS): With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the ch-1 sp you previously marked with a SM, sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (24 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last st, sc in the last st. Turn. (24 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (24 sts)

Rows 4 – 15: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (24 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Right Panel – Neck Shaping for the size you’re making.

Upper Left Panel – Sizes S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll begin the Upper Right Panel, working from the sweater’s right armhole opening towards the opening for the buttonhole edge.

Row 1 (WS): With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing sc in the stitch you previously marked with a SM, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 35, 37 sts)

Rows 2 – 15: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 35, 37 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Right Panel – Neck Shaping for the size you’re making.

Working the upper left panel of the crochet sweater.
Photo shows yarn joined to begin the Upper Left Panel.
Working the upper left panel of the crochet sweater.
Upper Left Panel complete.

Upper Left Panel – Neck Shaping – Size XS

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add decreases for the neck shaping. Once this section reaches a specific height, you’ll finish with a little simple shoulder shaping.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 5 sts, skip the last 5 sts. Turn. (19 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog (in the first sc and ch-1 sp), sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 3 sts, ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc2tog. Turn. (17 sts)

Rows 4 – 7: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (13 sts)

Rows 8 – 12: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (13 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Left Panel – Shoulder Shaping. Your Upper Left Panel should measure 3.25″ W.

Upper Left Panel – Shoulder Shaping – Size XS

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add simple shoulder shaping and finish your upper left panel.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 4 sts (not included in st count), sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) 3 times, skip the last 2 sts. Turn. (7 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. (7 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn 3 times the width of the shoulder for seaming the shoulder later. Continue on to Upper Back Panel – Armhole Shaping.

Upper Left Panel – Neck Shaping – Sizes S, XL, 2X, 3X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (S, XL, 2X, 3X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (S, XL, 2X, 3X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add decreases for the neck shaping. Once this section reaches a specific height, you’ll finish with a little simple shoulder shaping.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last (6, 8, 8, 8) sts, sc in the next ch-1 sp, skip the remaining (5, 7, 7, 7) sts. Turn. (22, 26, 28, 28 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (21, 25, 27, 27 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog (in the next ch-1 and sc). Turn. (20, 24, 26, 26 sts)

Rows 4 – 7: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (16, 20, 22, 22 sts) at the end of Row 7.

Row 8: Rep Row 2. (15, 19, 21, 21 sts)

Rows 9 – 12: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (15, 19, 21, 21 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Left Panel – Shoulder Shaping for the size you’re making. Your Upper Left Panel should measure (3.75″, 4.75″, 5.25″, 5.25″) W.

Upper Left Panel – Shoulder Shaping – Sizes S, XL, 2X, 3X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (S, XL, 2X, 3X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (S, XL, 2X, 3X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add simple shoulder shaping and finish your upper left panel.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 4 sts (not included in st count), sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (11, 15, 17, 17 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) (4, 6, 7, 7) times, skip the last 2 sts. Turn. (9, 13, 15, 15 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. (9, 13, 15, 15 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn 3 times the width of the shoulder for seaming the shoulder later. Continue on to Upper Back Panel – Armhole Shaping.

Upper Left Panel – Neck Shaping – Sizes M, L, 4X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (M, L, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (M, L, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add decreases for the neck shaping. Once this section reaches a specific height, you’ll finish with a little simple shoulder shaping.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last (6, 6, 8) sts, skip the last (6, 6, 8) sts. Turn. (23, 25, 29 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog (in the first sc and ch-1 sp), sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (22, 24, 28 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 3 sts, ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc2tog. Turn. (21, 23, 27 sts)

Rows 4 – 7: Rep Rows 2 – 3. (17, 19, 23 sts) at the end of Row 7.

Row 8: Rep Row 2. (16, 18, 22 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last st, sc in the last st. Turn. (16, 18, 22 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (16, 18, 22 sts)

Rows 11 – 12: Rep Rows 9 – 10. (16, 18, 22 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Left Panel – Shoulder Shaping for the size you’re making. Your Upper Left Panel should measure (4″, 4.5″, 5.5″) W.

Upper Left Panel – Shoulder Shaping – Sizes M, L, 4X

Changes for Sizes as Follows: (M, L, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (M, L, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add simple shoulder shaping and finish your upper left panel.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 4 sts (not included in st count), sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last st, sc in the last st. Turn. (12, 14, 18 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) (4, 5, 7) times. Turn. (10, 12, 16 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last st, sc in the last st. (10, 12, 16 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a tail of yarn 3 times the width of the shoulder for seaming the shoulder later. Continue on to Upper Back Panel – Armhole Shaping.

Completed front panels of the men's crochet sweater.
All front panels complete.

Upper Back Panel – Armhole Shaping

Changes for Sizes as Follows: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll begin the upper back panel from the sweater’s right armhole opening, working to the left armhole opening. You’ll add simple shaping to the armholes by working decrease stitches when you begin and end each row.

Row 1 (RS): With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in the st you previously marked for the back panel. Ch 1, sc2tog in the first sc & ch-1, (sc in the next sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1) work from ( to ) 33 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) times, sc2tog in the next sc & ch-1. Turn. (68, 74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114, 122 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog in the first sc & ch-1, (sc in the next sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1) work from ( to ) across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog over the last 2 sts. Turn. (66, 72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120 sts)

Rows 3 – 8 (8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 22): Rep Row 2. (54, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 76, 80 sts) at the end of the last row.

Row 9 (9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 21, 21): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1, (sc in the next sc, ch 1, skip the next ch-1) work from ( to ) across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog over the last 2 sts. Turn. (53, 59, 63, 67, 71, 75, 75, 79 sts)

After working the armhole shaping, the Upper Back Panel should measure 13.25″ W x 1.75″ H (14.75″ W x 1.75″ H) (15.75″ W x 2.25″ H) (16.75″ W x 2.75″ H) (17.75″ W x 3.25″ H) (18.75″ W x 3.75″ H) (18.75″ W x 4.75″ H) (19.75″ W x 4.75″ H).

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Back Panel.

Upper Back Panel

Changes for Sizes as Follows: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll continue the upper back panel without decreasing.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in the first sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across. Turn. (53, 59, 63, 67, 71, 75, 75, 79 sts)

Rows 2 – 27 (29, 29, 29, 29, 29, 27, 27): Rep Row 1. (53, 59, 63, 67, 71, 75, 75, 79 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Upper Back Panel – Shoulder Shaping.

Upper Back Panel – Shoulder Shaping

Changes for Sizes as Follows: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)

Stitch Counts as Follows: (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X sts)

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 15 sts = 3.75″; 17 rows = 4″

In this section, you’ll add a little shoulder shaping to the last few rows of the upper back panel.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 4 sts (do not count as sts), working in both loops for the remainder of the row, sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 4 sts, skip each of the last 4 sts. Turn. (45, 51, 55, 59, 63, 67, 67, 71 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 2 sts (do not count as sts), working in both loops for the remainder of the row, sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 2 sts, skip each of the last 2 sts. Turn. (41, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63, 63, 67 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the first 2 sts (do not count as sts), working in both loops for the remainder of the row, sc in the next sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) across to the last 2 sts, skip each of the last 2 sts. Turn. (37, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 59, 63 sts)

The entire back panel should measure 13.25″ W x 9″ H (14.75″ W x 9.5″ H) (15.75″ W x 10″ H) (16.75″ W x 10.5″ H) (17.75″ W x 11″ H) (18.75″ W x 11.5″ H) (18.75″ W x 12″ H) (19.75″ W x 12″ H).

Fasten off. Continue on to Seaming the Shoulders.

Working the back panel of the crochet sweater.
Photo shows yarn joined to begin the Back Panel.
Completed back panel of the crochet sweater.
Back Panel complete.

Seaming the Shoulders

Step 1: With the RS facing out, line up the outer corners of each shoulder panel with the corners of the back panel. To make it easier, I recommend using locking stitch markers to hold the panels in place during seaming.

Step 2: Line up the 13 (15, 16, 18, 19, 21, 21, 22) sts of each shoulder panel with corresponding stitches along the upper back panel. Use locking stitch markers to hold the panels together.

Step 3: With the right side facing out, use a yarn needle and the tail of yarn left after completing the shoulder panels and whipstitch each shoulder panel to the back panel.

Weave in ends. Continue on to the Sleeves.

Seaming shoulders of the crochet sweater.
Use locking stitch markers to hold the panels together while seaming the shoulders.

Sleeves

Gauge: In sc mesh st with a 5.00mm crochet hook: 18 sts = 4″; 10 rows = 2″

Note: Even though I continued with a 5.00mm crochet hook for the sleeves, I intentionally worked slightly tighter stitches for this section. Adjust your hook size, if needed.

In this section, you’ll begin the sleeve by working a single crochet into each stitch around the armhole opening. As you work the tapered sleeves, you’ll add rounds that include simple shaping by working decrease stitches when you begin and end certain rows.

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook and RS facing you, join yarn with a sc nearest center st at underarm, sc in each st and the side of each row around armhole opening. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (70, 74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94, 98 sts)

Rnd 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first st, ch 1, skip the next st, (sc in the next st, ch 1, skip the next st) work from ( to ) around. Join with a sl st to the first st. Turn. (70, 74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94, 98 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc2tog in the first ch-1 & sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) around to the last 2 sts, sc2tog in the last ch-1 sp & sc. Join. Turn. (68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc2tog in the first 2 sc, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) around to the last 2 sts, sc2tog in the last ch-1 sp & sc. Join. Turn. (66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 2 sts, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) around. Join. Turn. (66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94 sts)

Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (ch 1, skip the next ch-1, sc in the next sc) work from ( to ) around to the last st, sc in the last st. Join. Turn. (66, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the sleeve instructions for the size sweater you’re making.

Sleeves – Size X-Small

Rnds 7 – 8: Rep Rnd 4. (62 sts)

Rnds 9 – 20: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (62 sts)

Rnds 21 – 22: Rep Rnd 4. (58 sts)

Rnds 23 – 34: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (58 sts)

Rnds 35 – 36: Rep Rnd 4. (54 sts)

Rnds 37 – 48: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (54 sts)

Rnds 49 – 50: Rep Rnd 4. (50 sts)

Rnds 51 – 62: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (50 sts)

Rnds 63 – 64: Rep Rnd 4. (46 sts)

Rnds 65 – 76: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (46 sts)

Rnds 77 – 78: Rep Rnd 4. (42 sts)

Rep Rnds 5 – 6, ending with a Rnd 6, until sleeve measures 20″ L. (42 sts)

Sleeve Measurement: Measure sleeve length at the underarm, from the Body of Sweater outward.

Adding Length to the Sleeves: If you’d like to add length to your sleeves, continue to repeat rounds 5 – 6 until you’ve added the extra length. Make sure to end with a repeat of Round 6 so that your stitches line up with the next section. Keep in mind that the cuff will add 2-1/2″ to the sleeve length.

Note: If you add length to your sleeves, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeve Cuff.

Sleeves – Size Small

Rnds 7 – 8: Rep Rnd 4. (66 sts)

Rnds 9 – 18: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (66 sts)

Rnds 19 – 20: Rep Rnd 4. (62 sts)

Rnds 21 – 30: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (62 sts)

Rnds 31 – 32: Rep Rnd 4. (58 sts)

Rnds 33 – 42: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (58 sts)

Rnds 43 – 44: Rep Rnd 4. (54 sts)

Rnds 45 – 54: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (54 sts)

Rnds 55 – 56: Rep Rnd 4. (50 sts)

Rnds 57 – 66: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (50 sts)

Rnds 67 – 68: Rep Rnd 4. (46 sts)

Rnds 69 – 78: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (46 sts)

Rnds 79 – 80: Rep Rnd 4. (42 sts)

Rep Rnds 5 – 6, ending with a Rnd 6, until sleeve measures 20-1/2″ L. (42 sts)

Sleeve Measurement: Measure sleeve length at the underarm, from the Body of Sweater outward.

Adding Length to the Sleeves: If you’d like to add length to your sleeves, continue to repeat rounds 5 – 6 until you’ve added the extra length. Make sure to end with a repeat of Round 6 so that your stitches line up with the next section. Keep in mind that the cuff will add 2-1/2″ to the sleeve length.

Note: If you add length to your sleeves, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeve Cuff.

Sleeves – Size Medium

Rnds 7 – 8: Rep Rnd 4. (70 sts)

Rnds 9 – 18: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (70 sts)

Rnds 19 – 20: Rep Rnd 4. (66 sts)

Rnds 21 – 30: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (66 sts)

Rnds 31 – 32: Rep Rnd 4. (62 sts)

Rnds 33 – 42: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (62 sts)

Rnds 43 – 44: Rep Rnd 4. (58 sts)

Rnds 45 – 54: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (58 sts)

Rnds 55 – 56: Rep Rnd 4. (54 sts)

Rnds 57 – 66: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (54 sts)

Rnds 67 – 68: Rep Rnd 4. (50 sts)

Rnds 69 – 78: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (50 sts)

Rnds 79 – 80: Rep Rnd 4. (46 sts)

Rep Rnds 5 – 6, ending with a Rnd 6, until sleeve measures 20-1/2″ L. (46 sts)

Sleeve Measurement: Measure sleeve length at the underarm, from the Body of Sweater outward.

Adding Length to the Sleeves: If you’d like to add length to your sleeves, continue to repeat rounds 5 – 6 until you’ve added the extra length. Make sure to end with a repeat of Round 6 so that your stitches line up with the next section. Keep in mind that the cuff will add 2-1/2″ to the sleeve length.

Note: If you add length to your sleeves, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeve Cuff.

Sleeves – Size Large

Rnds 7 – 8: Rep Rnd 4. (74 sts)

Rnds 9 – 18: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (74 sts)

Rnds 19 – 20: Rep Rnd 4. (70 sts)

Rnds 21 – 30: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (70 sts)

Rnds 31 – 32: Rep Rnd 4. (66 sts)

Rnds 33 – 42: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (66 sts)

Rnds 43 – 44: Rep Rnd 4. (62 sts)

Rnds 45 – 54: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (62 sts)

Rnds 55 – 56: Rep Rnd 4. (58 sts)

Rnds 57 – 66: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (58 sts)

Rnds 67 – 68: Rep Rnd 4. (54 sts)

Rnds 69 – 78: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (54 sts)

Rnds 79 – 80: Rep Rnd 4. (50 sts)

Rnds 81 – 90: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (50 sts)

Rnds 91 – 92: Rep Rnd 4. (46 sts)

Rep Rnds 5 – 6, ending with a Rnd 6, until sleeve measures 20-1/2″ L. (46 sts)

Sleeve Measurement: Measure sleeve length at the underarm, from the Body of Sweater outward.

Adding Length to the Sleeves: If you’d like to add length to your sleeves, continue to repeat rounds 5 – 6 until you’ve added the extra length. Make sure to end with a repeat of Round 6 so that your stitches line up with the next section. Keep in mind that the cuff will add 2-1/2″ to the sleeve length.

Note: If you add length to your sleeves, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeve Cuff.

Sleeves – Size X-Large

Rnds 7 – 8: Rep Rnd 4. (78 sts)

Rnds 9 – 18: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (78 sts)

Rnds 19 – 20: Rep Rnd 4. (74 sts)

Rnds 21 – 30: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (74 sts)

Rnds 31 – 32: Rep Rnd 4. (70 sts)

Rnds 33 – 42: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (70 sts)

Rnds 43 – 44: Rep Rnd 4. (66 sts)

Rnds 45 – 54: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (66 sts)

Rnds 55 – 56: Rep Rnd 4. (62 sts)

Rnds 57 – 66: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (62 sts)

Rnds 67 – 68: Rep Rnd 4. (58 sts)

Rnds 69 – 78: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (58 sts)

Rnds 79 – 80: Rep Rnd 4. (54 sts)

Rnds 81 – 90: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (54 sts)

Rnds 91 – 92: Rep Rnd 4. (50 sts)

Rnds 93 – 102: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (50 sts)

Rnds 103 – 104: Rep Rnd 4. (46 sts)

Rep Rnds 5 – 6, ending with a Rnd 6, until sleeve measures 21″ L. (46 sts)

Sleeve Measurement: Measure sleeve length at the underarm, from the Body of Sweater outward.

Adding Length to the Sleeves: If you’d like to add length to your sleeves, continue to repeat rounds 5 – 6 until you’ve added the extra length. Make sure to end with a repeat of Round 6 so that your stitches line up with the next section. Keep in mind that the cuff will add 2-1/2″ to the sleeve length.

Note: If you add length to your sleeves, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeve Cuff.

Sleeves – Size 2X

Rnds 7 – 8: Rep Rnd 4. (82 sts)

Rnds 9 – 16: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (82 sts)

Rnds 17 – 18: Rep Rnd 4. (78 sts)

Rnds 19 – 26: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (78 sts)

Rnds 27 – 28: Rep Rnd 4. (74 sts)

Rnds 29 – 36: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (74 sts)

Rnds 37 – 38: Rep Rnd 4. (70 sts)

Rnds 39 – 46: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (70 sts)

Rnds 47 – 48: Rep Rnd 4. (66 sts)

Rnds 49 – 56: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (66 sts)

Rnds 57 – 58: Rep Rnd 4. (62 sts)

Rnds 59 – 66: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (62 sts)

Rnds 67 – 68: Rep Rnd 4. (58 sts)

Rnds 69 – 76: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (58 sts)

Rnds 77 – 78: Rep Rnd 4. (54 sts)

Rnds 79 – 86: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (54 sts)

Rnds 87 – 88: Rep Rnd 4. (50 sts)

Rnds 89 – 96: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (50 sts)

Rnds 97 – 98: Rep Rnd 4. (46 sts)

Rep Rnds 5 – 6, ending with a Rnd 6, until sleeve measures 21″ L. (46 sts)

Sleeve Measurement: Measure sleeve length at the underarm, from the Body of Sweater outward.

Adding Length to the Sleeves: If you’d like to add length to your sleeves, continue to repeat rounds 5 – 6 until you’ve added the extra length. Make sure to end with a repeat of Round 6 so that your stitches line up with the next section. Keep in mind that the cuff will add 2-1/2″ to the sleeve length.

Note: If you add length to your sleeves, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeve Cuff.

Sleeves – Size 3X

Rnds 7 – 8: Rep Rnd 4. (86 sts)

Rnds 9 – 16: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (86 sts)

Rnds 17 – 18: Rep Rnd 4. (82 sts)

Rnds 19 – 26: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (82 sts)

Rnds 27 – 28: Rep Rnd 4. (78 sts)

Rnds 29 – 36: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (78 sts)

Rnds 37 – 38: Rep Rnd 4. (74 sts)

Rnds 39 – 46: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (74 sts)

Rnds 47 – 48: Rep Rnd 4. (70 sts)

Rnds 49 – 56: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (70 sts)

Rnds 57 – 58: Rep Rnd 4. (66 sts)

Rnds 59 – 66: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (66 sts)

Rnds 67 – 68: Rep Rnd 4. (62 sts)

Rnds 69 – 76: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (62 sts)

Rnds 77 – 78: Rep Rnd 4. (58 sts)

Rnds 79 – 86: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (58 sts)

Rnds 87 – 88: Rep Rnd 4. (54 sts)

Rnds 89 – 96: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (54 sts)

Rnds 97 – 98: Rep Rnd 4. (50 sts)

Rep Rnds 5 – 6, ending with a Rnd 6, until sleeve measures 22″ L. (50 sts)

Sleeve Measurement: Measure sleeve length at the underarm, from the Body of Sweater outward.

Adding Length to the Sleeves: If you’d like to add length to your sleeves, continue to repeat rounds 5 – 6 until you’ve added the extra length. Make sure to end with a repeat of Round 6 so that your stitches line up with the next section. Keep in mind that the cuff will add 2-1/2″ to the sleeve length.

Note: If you add length to your sleeves, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeve Cuff.

Sleeves – Size 4X

Rnds 7 – 8: Rep Rnd 4. (90 sts)

Rnds 9 – 16: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (90 sts)

Rnds 17 – 18: Rep Rnd 4. (86 sts)

Rnds 19 – 26: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (86 sts)

Rnds 27 – 28: Rep Rnd 4. (82 sts)

Rnds 29 – 36: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (82 sts)

Rnds 37 – 38: Rep Rnd 4. (78 sts)

Rnds 39 – 46: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (78 sts)

Rnds 47 – 48: Rep Rnd 4. (74 sts)

Rnds 49 – 56: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (74 sts)

Rnds 57 – 58: Rep Rnd 4. (70 sts)

Rnds 59 – 66: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (70 sts)

Rnds 67 – 68: Rep Rnd 4. (66 sts)

Rnds 69 – 76: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (66 sts)

Rnds 77 – 78: Rep Rnd 4. (62 sts)

Rnds 79 – 86: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (62 sts)

Rnds 87 – 88: Rep Rnd 4. (58 sts)

Rnds 89 – 96: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (58 sts)

Rnds 97 – 98: Rep Rnd 4. (54 sts)

Rnds 99 – 106: Rep Rnds 5 – 6. (54 sts)

Rnds 107 – 108: Rep Rnd 4. (50 sts)

Rep Rnds 5 – 6, ending with a Rnd 6, until sleeve measures 22″ L. (50 sts)

Sleeve Measurement: Measure sleeve length at the underarm, from the Body of Sweater outward.

Adding Length to the Sleeves: If you’d like to add length to your sleeves, continue to repeat rounds 5 – 6 until you’ve added the extra length. Make sure to end with a repeat of Round 6 so that your stitches line up with the next section. Keep in mind that the cuff will add 2-1/2″ to the sleeve length.

Note: If you add length to your sleeves, you will need more yarn than what is listed in the chart above.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to the Sleeve Cuff.

Completed sleeve of the crochet sweater.
The above photo shows one sleeve complete to length before adding the sleeve cuff.
Measuring the completed sleeve of the crochet sweater.
The photo above shows how to measure sleeve length before adding the sleeve cuff.
Completed sleeve of the crochet sweater.
The photo above shows one sleeve complete with the ribbed sleeve cuff.
Crochet men's sweater against a wooden background.
Both sleeves complete.

Sleeve Cuff

In this section, you’ll first add a round of single crochet around the last round of the sleeve. Then, you’ll crochet cuff ribbing perpendicular to the sleeve.

Set-Up

Rnd 1 (RS): With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook, ch 1, work 1 sc into each sc & ch-1 sp around. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (42, 42, 46, 46, 46, 46, 50, 50 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Cuff Ribbing.

Cuff Ribbing

Gauge: In stitch pattern as written below, with 5.00mm hook, 11 sts = 2.5″; 10 rows = 3.75″ H

Row 1 (RS): Ch 12, working in the back humps of the ch, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook, hdc in each of the next 9 chs, hdc2tog in the next ch & same st as ch 12. Do not turn. (11 sts)

Row 2: ( sl st into the next st along the edge of the sleeve opening ) 3 times (these 3 sl sts do not count as sts), TURN, BLO hdc in each st across the previous row. Turn. (11 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, BLO hdc in the first st, BLO hdc in each of the next 9 sts, hdc2tog in the BLO of the next st and both loops of the next st along the edge of the sleeve opening. Do not turn. (11 sts)

Row 4: ( sl st into the next st along the edge of the sleeve opening ) 3 times (these 3 sl sts do not count as sts), TURN, BLO hdc in each st across the previous row. Turn. (11 sts)

Rep Rows 3 – 4 around the sleeve opening.

Fasten off leaving a 6″ tail of yarn. Using a yarn needle and the tail of yarn to whipstitch the last row to the first row.

Weave in ends. Add the second sleeve and cuff, then continue on to Finishing the Neck Opening.

Progression Photos – Sleeve Cuff & Collar Ribbing

The photos below show the Sleeve Cuff Ribbing, but the Collar Ribbing is worked the same exact way, even though the stitch count is less than the sleeve cuff.

Row 1 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
This photo shows the beginning of Row 1 of the Sleeve Cuff Ribbing or Collar Ribbing. The yarn needle is showing where to work the first hdc into the 2nd ch form your hook.
Row 1 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
Photo shows Row 1 complete to the hdc2tog. The yarn needles are showing where to work the hdc2tog.
Row 1 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
This photo shows the hdc2tog complete. The two yarn needles & green SM are inserted into the next 3 sts along the edge of the sleeve opening where you will work the 3 sl sts at the beginning of row 2. NOTE: For the Collar Ribbing you will only sl st in the next 2 sts (not 3).
Row 2 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
This photo shows the beginning of Row 2 of the ribbing. I placed a SM in the hdc2tog to help locate the first stitch to work into after we turn to work the rest of Row 2.
Row 2 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
After turning to work the rest of Row 2, you can see the 3 sl sts and the stitch marker where you will work the first hdc.
Row 2 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
This photo shows Row 2 of the ribbing complete. I placed a SM in the FLO of the last stitch of the row to mark the loop where I need to begin the next row.
Row 3 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
The SM in this photo shows where to work the first stitch of Row 3. The yarn needles show where to work the hdc2tog at the end of the row.
Starting Row 4 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
The two yarn needles & green SM are inserted into the next 3 sts along the edge of the sleeve opening where you will work the 3 sl sts at the beginning of row 4.
Row 4 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
Begin Row 4 by sl st in the next 3 stitches along the neck opening. The SM is placed in the FLO of the hdc2tog to mark where to work the first hdc in the next row.
Row 4 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
 In this photo, you can see the 3 sl sts you worked before turning and the SM that’s marking where to work the first hdc. The SM shows where to work the first stitch of the row.
Row 4 of the cuff ribbing for the crochet sweater.
This photo shows Rows 1 – 4 complete.

Finishing the Neck Opening

In this section, with the sweater facing you, you’ll join yarn near the bottom left corner of the neck opening and work up and down the left vertical edge to create the button flap (that the buttons will later be attached to). Next, you’ll join yarn at the upper right corner of the right vertical edge and work down and up the right vertical edge to create the buttonhole flap. After creating both vertical flaps, you’ll join yarn and work a single crochet around the neck opening. Lastly, you’ll add ribbing at the top of the neck opening (similar to the sleeve cuff ribbing) and finish your men’s sweater by attaching buttons.

Button Flap

Row 1 (RS): With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in the bottom left corner of the neck opening (see progression photos), ch 1, work 1 sc into each st up the vertical edge. Turn. (15 sts)

Rows 2 – 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (15 sts)

Place a locking SM in the last stitch of Row 5 to mark where to later join yarn.

Fasten off. Continue on to Buttonhole Flap.

Starting the button flap of the crochet sweater.
The green stitch marker shows where to join yarn the begin the Button Flap. The Button Flap is crocheted up the vertical edge.
Completed button flap of the crochet sweater.
The photo above shows the Button Flap complete.
The green stitch marker is showing where to join yarn to begin the Buttonhole Flap.

Buttonhole Flap

Row 1 (RS): With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in the top right corner of the neck opening (see progression photos), ch 1, work 1 sc into each st down the vertical edge. Turn. (15 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (15 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of the first 3 sts, (ch 2, skip each of the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 2 sts) 3 times. Turn. (15 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch across. Turn. (15 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (15 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Edge Neck Opening.

Completed buttonhole flap of the crochet sweater.
Buttonhole Flap complete.

Edge Neck Opening

Row 1 (RS): With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in the stitch marked with a SM (see photos), ch 1, sc in each st around the neck opening. Stitch count isn’t crucial.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Continue on to Finishing the Collar.

Working the edging around the neck opening of the crochet sweater.
The green stitch marker shows where to join yarn to work the Edge Neck Opening. The orange stitch marker shows where it will end.
Working the edging around the neck opening of the crochet sweater.
Edge Neck Opening complete.

Finishing the Collar

In this section, you’ll join yarn in the bottom corner of the button flap and work a slip stitch in each stitch up to the opposite corner. Then, you’ll crochet ribbing around the neck opening similar to the sleeve cuff ribbing. Lastly, you’ll work a slip stitch in each stitch down the buttonhole flap.

Row 1 (RS): With yarn and a 5.00mm crochet hook, join yarn with a sl st in the bottom corner of the button flap (flap on the left in the progression photos), slip stitch in each stitch up the button flap to the upper corner.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Collar Ribbing.

Working the edging around the neck opening of the crochet sweater.
The green SM shows where to join yarn to work Finishing the Collar.
Working the collar ribbing of the crochet sweater.
This photo shows Finishing the Collar complete. This section is simply to slip stitch up the edge of the button flap. Now it’s time to crochet the collar ribbing.

Collar Ribbing

Gauge: In stitch pattern as written below, with 5.00mm hook, 11 sts = 2.5″; 10 rows = 3.75″ H

Gauge Tip: If you’re collar seems excessively wavy, or floppy, try going down a hook size or two.

Photo Tutorial: Refer to the photo tutorial for the cuff ribbing for help. The collar ribbing is a few stitches shorter than the cuff ribbing and instead of beginning Row 2 with 3 sl sts, you’ll only work 2 sl sts for the collar. Although the stitch counts are different, the techniques used to add cuff ribbing and collar ribbing are the same.

Row 1 (RS): Continuing with a 5.00mm crochet hook, ch 8, working in the back humps of the ch, hdc in the 2nd ch from your hook, hdc in each of the next 5 chs, hdc2tog in the next ch & same st as ch 8. Do not turn. (7 sts)

Row 2: ( sl st into the next st along the edge of the neck opening ) 2 times (these 2 sl sts do not count as sts), TURN, BLO hdc in each st across the previous row. Turn. (7 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, BLO hdc in the first st, BLO hdc in each of the next 5 sts, hdc2tog in the BLO of the next st and both loops of the next st along the edge of the neck opening. Do not turn. (7 sts)

Row 4: ( sl st into the next st along the edge of the sleeve opening ) 2 times (these 2 sl sts do not count as sts), TURN, BLO hdc in each st across the previous row. Turn. (7 sts)

Rep Rows 3 – 4 around the neck opening.

After crocheting ribbing all around the neck opening, work a sl st in each stitch down the buttonhole flap (see progression photos).

Fasten off leaving an 8″ tail of yarn. Continue on to Securing the Button & Buttonhole Flaps.

Working the collar ribbing of the crochet sweater.
Photo shows a few rows of the Collar Ribbing complete.
Working the collar ribbing of the crochet sweater.
Photo shows a few more rows of the Collar Ribbing complete.
Working the collar ribbing of the crochet sweater.
This photo shows the final slip stitch down the buttonhole flap being completed after you’ve worked all of the collar ribbing.

Securing the Button & Buttonhole Flaps & Attaching Buttons

Step 1: With a yarn needle and piece of yarn, whipstitch the bottom edge of the button flap to the BACK LOOPS of the skipped stitches at the bottom of the opening. Weave in ends.

Step 2: With a yarn needle and tail of yarn, whipstitch the bottom edge of the buttonhole flap to the FRONT LOOPS of the skipped stitches at the bottom of the opening. Weave in ends.

Step 3: Lay buttons on the button flap and line them up with the buttonholes. Using a needle and thread, attach each of the buttons to the button flap.

Working the collar ribbing of the crochet sweater.
Photo above shows Step 1.
Working the collar ribbing of the crochet sweater.
Photo above shows Step 2.
Working the collar ribbing of the crochet sweater.
Photo above shows Step 2 being
completed.
The collar of the crochet sweater against a wooden background.
Photo above shows Steps 1 & 2 complete.
Buttons attached to the crochet sweater.
Photo above shows Step 3 complete.
A man standing in a field wearing a beige crochet sweater and hat with his back to the camera.
The ribbing gives it a nice fitting without being too tight and restrictive.

I MADE IT! NOW WHAT?

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Happy Crocheting, Jennifer.

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