Winter Waves Crochet Kimono Slippers

If you’re looking for a bit of a challenge that ends with a truly satisfying make, this is where your search ends. With step-by-step detailed instructions, from the sole to the sides to the seaming, you’ll find all you need in this free crochet pattern to work up your first pair of crochet kimono slippers.

The pattern is just complex enough to keep your attention throughout and just short enough that you won’t get frustrated in between. If you have a skein of your favorite fingering weight yarn lying about and don’t know how best to utilize it, this is the perfect project to do just that.

You’ll find the crochet kimono slippers pattern free below, or you can find an ad-free printable PDF (that includes all photo tutorials) on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).

Purple crochet kimono slippers on feet against a white background. — You know your toes will stay extra warm inside these cozy socks.

You know those evenings when you’re hosting a casual get-together or have a nice dinner date planned inside and you’re not sure how to complete your outfit with the right footwear? Especially when it’s chilly and you just want to wear your favorite chunky socks? That’s where these elegant kimono slippers come in.

Make them in a lush color and have them on hand for the perfect finishing touch to your accessories for the evening.

Related: If you want to make similar-looking slippers with an easier construction, the Willow Crochet Slippers are a great option which come in multiple sizes!

How to Crochet a Pair of Slippers

There’s a bit of seaming required in these slippers, especially because they’re made from three separate pieces each. First, you’ll crochet the upper piece. Then you’ll crochet two soles (each slipper has a double sole so that means four soles in total).

Next, arrange the pieces for assembly and use locking stitch markers to hold them in place. This is important to ensure the alignment doesn’t get messed up while you’re making your stitches.

Lastly, crochet all around the perimeter to attach the upper to the sole. Repeat the exact same for the other slipper and they’re ready to go!

How To Get The

Winter Waves Kimono Slippers Pattern

Option 1: Scroll down for the free crochet slippers pattern right here in this blog post.

Option 2: Purchase the ad-free printable PDF from one of my shops:

Ravelry

Etsy

Yarn

For the Winter Waves Crochet Kimono Slippers in the pictures, I used Less Traveled Yarn “Tweed Me” in Merlot but this yarn has been discontinued. A great alternative is the Knit Picks Stroll Hand-Painted Sock Yarn. This is a beautifully hand painted yarn with bold variegation and multicolor options which was specifically designed for socks.

Because of the merino wool content of this yarn, it’s an excellent choice for extra softness and easy maintenance. This yarn is machine washable which allows you to get the most out of your kimono slippers without worrying about getting them dirty.

How to Wash Crochet Slippers

My youngest bought herself a pair of UGG slipper boots and loves them, but they aren’t as easy to care for as crocheted slippers are. I love the convenience of being able to toss my slippers in the washer!

Many crocheters will ask ‘Can you wash crochet in a washing machine?’

Depending on the yarn you used to crochet the slippers, yes, in most cases, you can simply toss your handmade slippers in the washing machine. Make sure to check the yarn label for care instructions first.

If the yarn you used is machine washable, I recommend washing them on a gentle cycle in cold or warm water. Then, lay them flat to dry.

Tip: If you have them handy, I like to wash my crochet slippers in mesh laundry bags.

How to Make Crochet Slippers Non-Slip

Handmade slippers are great, but they can be super slippery on hard surfaces!

When my kids were little and we had hardwood floors and stairs, I was always worried about them slipping and falling. So, when I started crocheting slippers for them, I wanted a fun, quick, and easy way to make the soles non-slip.

That’s when I remembered making non-slip socks with my friends for a high school sock hop. We used Tulip Puff Paint for our socks so I figured why not try it on the kids slippers… it worked great!

My kids loved being able to choose their own colors and help paint shapes on the soles of their slippers. They made little stars, hearts, and squiggly lines and their favorite was the glow-in-the-dark puff paint.

Although there are many great options to keep crochet slippers from slipping, such as Plasti Dip or sewing non-slip fabric onto the soles, I’ve found that the easiest, most fun, and most cost effective is Tulip Puff Paint!

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Winter Waves Kimono Slippers – Free Crochet Pattern

The crochet slippers pattern is free below, but if you love to work offline, I’ve got a couple other great options for you.

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF, (including all photo tutorials) on Ravelry, or on Etsy (aff).

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites.

Pin it & Save it for later.

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel!

This post contains affiliate links.

Materials

Yarn: Fingering Weight / 1 / Yarn, Knit Picks Stroll Hand-Painted Sock Yarn or any comparable weight yarn can be used.
Yardage: One hank, less than 462 yards, will make a pair in any size.
Crochet Hooks: E/3.50mm; D/3.25mm; or size needed to obtain gauge (My favorite crochet hooks are the Clover Amour Crochet Hooks, I’ve never had an ache in my hand since switching).
Scissors
Yarn Needle
Measuring Tape
Locking Stitch Markers (at least 4)

Abbreviations (US Terms)

ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
st(s): stitch(es)
yo: yarn over
cluster st: see special stitches below
Rnd: round
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
BLO: back loop only
SM: stitch marker
Join yarn with a standing sc
Join yarn with a standing hdc

Special Stitches

cluster stitch (cluster st): yo, insert hook into designated st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw thru first 2 loops on hook (2 loops remaining), yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw thru 2 loops on hook (3 loops remaining), yo, insert hook into same st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw thru 2 loops (4 loops remaining), yo, draw thru all 4 remaining loops.
Join yarn with a standing single crochet or standing half double crochet: Begin with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook into the stitch or space indicated, yo, pull up a loop, yo and draw thru both loops on hook.

Experience Level

Intermediate

Gauge

Sole in sc (3.5mm hook): 10 sts + 12 rows = 2″
Uppers In stitch pattern (3.5mm hook): 10 sts + 13 rows = 2″
See below for Gauge Swatch instructions.

Sizes

Fits US Women’s Sizes: 5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 11/12

Pattern Notes

Beginning chain(s) are not included in stitch count unless noted otherwise.
I crochet more tightly than most. If you normally crochet loosely, adjust hook size until you meet gauge.
First stitch of each row is worked into the same stitch as turning chain, unless instructed otherwise.
Yarn Notes: Knit Picks Stroll Hand-Painted Sock Yarn (75% superwash merino; 25% nylon / 462yds / 100g). Other comparable yarns may be used as long as gauge is met.
Reinforcing the Slipper Sole: See tips above.
Construction Notes: First, you’ll crochet the upper piece. Then you’ll crochet two soles (each slipper has a double sole). Next, arrange the pieces for assembly and use locking stitch markers to hold them in place. Lastly, crochet all around the perimeter to attach the upper to the sole.

Winter Waves Kimono Slippers – Written Pattern

Gauge & Gauge Swatch for Uppers

Gauge: In stitch pattern as written in the instructions below: 10 sts = 2″ and 13 rows = 2″

Note: The biggest piece of advice I can give you, that will make this pattern much more enjoyable, is to make sure you work your sl sts loosely. If you do not, working the next row will be much harder than it needs to be.

Row 1: With yarn & a 3.5mm crochet hook, ch 20, *working into the back hump of the ch*, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 4 chs, [ hdc in next ch, cluster st in next ch, hdc in next ch, sl st in next 4 chs ] work from [ to ] twice. (19 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, Turn, BLO sl st in each st across. (19 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, Turn, BLO sl st in next st, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] twice, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in last st. (19 sts)

Row 4: Repeat Row 2. (19 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, Turn, BLO sl st in next 5 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] twice. (19 sts)

Row 6: Repeat Row 2. (19 sts)

Rows 7 – 16: Repeat Rows 3 – 6, ( with you’ll end with a row 4 repeat). (19 sts)

Fasten off. Your swatch should measure 3.8″ W X 2.46″ H. *measure height from the bottom of one cluster up.

Upper Size 5/6 ~ Make 2

Row 1 (RS): With yarn & a 3.5mm crochet hook, ch 97, *working into the back hump of the ch*, sl st in the 2nd ch from your hook, sl st in each of the next 9 chs, [ hdc in next ch, cluster st in next ch, hdc in next ch, sl st in each of the next 4 chs ] work from [ to ] 12 times, sl st in each of the last 2 chs. Turn. (96 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (97 sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each of the next 6 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 13 times. Turn. (98 sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (99 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each of the next 10 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 12 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (100 sts)

Row 6: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (101 sts)

Row 7: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each of the next 7 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 13 times, BLO sl st in the next 3 sts. Turn. (102 sts)

Row 8: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (103 sts)

Row 9: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each of the next 11 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 12 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 8 sts. Turn. (104 sts)

Note the beginning of the rows change now.

Row 10: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (104 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 8 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 13 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (104 sts)

Row 12: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (104 sts)

Row 13: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 11 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 12 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 9 sts. Turn. (104 sts)

Rows 14 – 16: Rep Rows 10 – 12.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to First Toe.

After turning, place a SM in the 23rd stitch from the end of the row to mark the beginning of the Second Toe.

A purple crochet stitch with a red crochet hook and purple ball of yarn against a white background.

First Toe Size 5/6

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 11 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 8 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in next st (leave last 2 sts unworked). Turn. (19 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (19 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 11 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 3 sts (leave last 2 sts unworked). Turn. (17 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (17 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 8 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO hdc in next st (leave last st unworked). Turn. (16 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 15 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (15 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 10 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in next st (leave last st unworked). Turn. (14 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 13 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (13 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 6 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts. Turn. (13 sts)

Row 12: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 12 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (12 sts)

Row 13: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 8 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in next st. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 14: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (12 sts)

Fasten off. Continue on to Second Toe.

A purple crochet stitch with a red crochet hook against a white background.

Second Toe Size 5/6

Row 1 (RS): With yarn & a 3.5mm crochet hook, join yarn with a standing hdc in the BLO of the st marked with SM, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in next 4sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 13 sts. Turn. (23 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 21 sts (leave the last 2 sts unworked). Turn. (21 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 3 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, BLO sl st in next 6 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 12 sts. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 19 sts (leave last 2 sts unworked). Turn. (19 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 2 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (18 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 17 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (17 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, BLO sl st in next 2 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 11 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (16 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 15 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (15 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 7 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (14 sts)

Row 12: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 13 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (13 sts)

Row 13: Ch 1, BLO sl st in next 6 sts, BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 3 sts (leave last st unworked). Turn. (12 sts)

Row 14: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (12 sts)

Do not fasten off. Continue on to Edging.

A purple crochet stitch with a red crochet hook and purple ball of yarn in the corner against a white background.

Edging

Tip: When working stitches into the sides of every other row, I prefer to work into the sl st rows.

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, BLO sc in each of the next 12 sts, work across the toe working 1 sc into the side of every other row (15 sts), working into the bottom of the foundation ch, sc in each st across (96 sts), work across the toe working 1 sc into the side of every other row (15 sts), rotate, BLO sc in each of the next 12 sts, rotate, work 1 sc into the side of every other row of the next 14 rows of the inside edge of the toe (7 sts), BLO sc in each st across edge to inside edge of opposite toe (60 sts), rotate, work 1 sc into the side of every other row of the next 14 rows of the inside edge of the toe (7 sts). Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (224 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Make second Upper then continue on to Sole.

Sole Size 5/6 ~ Make 2 for each foot (approximate length 8.33″L)

Note: The soles will be narrow. This is intentional.

Row 1: With yarn & a 3.5mm crochet hook, ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (8 sts)

Rows 3 – 20: Repeat Row 2. (8 sts)

Row 21: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st across to last st, 2 sc in last st. Turn. (10 sts)

Rows 22 – 42: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 43: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each remaining st. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 44: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (9 sts)

Row 45: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each remaining st. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 46: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 47: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each remaining st. Turn. (7 sts)

Row 48: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (7 sts)

Fasten off. Repeat for the remaining soles. Continue to Joining Soles.

Joining Soles

Line up 2 soles by placing one on top of the other. For the Right Sole, have the toe decreases on your left. For the Left Sole, have the toe decreases on your right.

Working thru both layers, join yarn with a standing sc in a st along the back of the heel, sc in each st around soles. Join with a sl st to the 1st st. (111 sts)

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Mark this side as the right side. This side will be the bottom of your finished slipper. Repeat for 2nd sole. Continue on to Assembly.

Upper Size 7/8 ~ Make 2

Row 1 (RS): With yarn & a 3.5mm crochet hook, ch 104, *working into the back hump of the ch*, sl st in the 2nd ch from your hook, sl st in each of the next 9 chs, [ hdc in next ch, cluster st in next ch, hdc in next ch, sl st in each of the next 4 chs ] work from [ to ] 13 times, sl st in each of the last 2 chs. Turn. (103 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (104 sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (106 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each of the next 10 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 13 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (107 sts)

Row 6: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (108 sts)

Row 7: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each of the next 7 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 14 times, BLO sl st in the next 3 sts. Turn. (109 sts)

Row 8: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (110 sts)

Row 9: Ch 2, sl st in the BLO of the 2nd ch from your hook, BLO sl st in each of the next 11 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 13 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 8 sts. Turn. (111 sts)

Note the beginning of the rows change now.

Row 10: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (111 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 8 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 14 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 5 sts. Turn. (111 sts)

Row 12: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each st across. Turn. (111 sts)

Row 13: Ch 1, BLO sl st in each of the next 11 sts, [ BLO hdc in next st, BLO cluster st in next st, BLO hdc in next st, BLO sl st in each of the next 4 sts ] work from [ to ] 13 times, BLO sl st in each of the next 9 sts. Turn. (111 sts)

Rows 14 – 16: Rep Rows 10 – 12.

Do not fasten off. Continue on to First Toe.

After turning, place a SM in the 23rd stitch from the end of the row to mark the beginning of the Second Toe.

First Toe Size 7/8